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Advanced Member

Posts: 97

Location: NJ, USA


Thursday, September 15th 2011, 9:34pm

At my local Home Depot, you can also rent an air compressor (gas) for $40 a day. It is about a 10 gallon one. Don't know if that would do the job. Probably, beacause as a homeowner, you don't have to do many systems a day. Just yours. For me, I don't mind taking a day to do it, as long as its done right, and its a good price.
A lot of work to save $35, sez me
Everybody around here we asked (about 3 companies) say that they'll do a 5 zone system blowout for the cheapest, $125, most expensive one was $250 somethin'. Very expensive. A blowout should Never cost that much, not even close unless its like a 24 zone system! I dont know if im going crazy or what, but I asked 3 companies and they were all that much. 8| ?( :cursing:
I'm no expert..........YET! :D I just like to suggest things and learn... :thumbsup: See what the pro's have to say first.


Senior Member

Posts: 22

Location: New Zealand


Monday, March 26th 2012, 7:32pm

Turf thatch/mat over winter

I don't need to blow out any water, as we only get grass frosts
here; no ground freeze. But what of the turf mat/thatch? The
grass keeps growing in winter here. One helluva lot slower
than in summer, but growing nonetheless. Is it possible that
a mat/thatch will intertwine over the rotor heads during the
months when irrigation is not necessary and cause problems
in the Spring/Summer, when irrigation again becomes necessary?

Is it prudent to stand at the controller once-a-month (say) and
do a manual run of all zones for (say) a minute, to ensure no
thatch gets too tight? Or will the heads driven by 60psi water
just pop up in due season, regardless?


Supreme Member

Posts: 332

Location: Northern New Jersey


Tuesday, March 27th 2012, 6:35am

If your heads are too low you may be able to easily raise them if the installer used swing joints or funny pipe. But I think you can just check before you turn on the system and cut away any problem thatch.


Starting Member


Saturday, November 16th 2013, 6:31pm

Remember, it's the CFM rating that clears the water from the line.

Actually, the CFM dictates the length of time one can sustain the correct PSI, yes? Hunter recommends nothing above 50 PSI for pipes 2" and smaller, so if you can sustain that long enough with the compressor that has enough CFM everything is golden, correct?

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