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Placement of Backflow Device (Watts Double Check)

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phughes

New Member

Posts: 3

Location: USA

1

Thursday, November 13th 2003, 3:06am

Placement of Backflow Device (Watts Double Check)

This forum rocks! I will be installing a new system in the spring, however I am having a new well installed in the coming weeks thus my question. When the plumers are on site hooking up the new well and pressure tanks they have agreed to install the backflow device (Watts 007M1QT 1" Double Check)at no charge thus I will be able to just stub out from the device without a need to worry about disrupting my water service in the spring. I have two questions. Should the device be placed "before" the pressure tanks or after (T off of the main line coming in to the house and to the pressure tanks). I say tanks as we are installing 2 wr60 tanks to provide the home with even pressure. Installing a 4" well with a 1horse submersible pump.

My second question is I have been researching the design and installation of this system for three years now and I feel pretty comfortable with all aspects except the "winterization with air" hook up. What I understand about it is that the hookup is downstream of the backflow device and upstream of the zone valves. What type of "hookup" do you use? A regular ball valve? If so what type of device do you use to connect the valve to the air hose? I have been told at the irrigation supply house that some installers use a washing machine hose that is screwed to the valve and then hooked up to the air supply (I guess it would need to be stepped down in size?

At any rate sorry for the long post.

Rays Sprinklers

Supreme Member

Posts: 493

Location: USA

2

Thursday, November 13th 2003, 9:37am

hey, The backflow you want before your sprinkler valves. So i guess they would install your tanks run up a pipe, put in the backflow and in the sprinkg you would tap off of that. As far as the winterization, simply install a tee, before the backflow, and cap it off. (normally its 1/2" female threads on the tee, capped with a 1/2" threaded plug) then you attach the compressor to there. i would suggest having a professional winterize your system unless you have a sufficent size compressor, that way there are no flaws. Winterizing is a crucial step to the life of the system
Thanks
Ray
Rays Above and Beyond Automatic Lawn Sprinklers

bhungue2

Advanced Member

Posts: 70

Location: USA

3

Thursday, November 13th 2003, 10:26am

Like ray said use a tee, that is the best way. I generally install a 3/4" or 1" plug.
Bhungue2

phughes

New Member

Posts: 3

Location: USA

4

Friday, November 14th 2003, 1:57am

So then my sprinkler system water will flow from the well . . .into the tanks . . .through a backflow device then out to my valves . . .correct? The water still must go through the tanks?

Rays Sprinklers

Supreme Member

Posts: 493

Location: USA

5

Friday, November 14th 2003, 1:43pm

right........do you have enough GPM and pressure for your system? from this?
Thanks
Ray
Rays Above and Beyond Automatic Lawn Sprinklers

DIYer

New Member

Posts: 12

Location: USA

6

Saturday, November 15th 2003, 10:06am


If your well will be providing water to your house and if it's not too late, upgrade your Well pump from 1hp to 1.5 hp (this will also require a larger pressure tank, larger water pipe (1 1/4") and a larger gauge electrical cable from your well pump to your house).

You will thank me later. All of my neighbors have a 1hp system. My system is 1.5hp and I am the envy of the neighborhood because my pressure is so good! It is very expensive to retrofit later.

You also need to consider if you will use softened water or hard water with you sprinkler system. Many people do not want staining on thier sidewalks house, etc. therefor install the sprinkler pipe and backflow preventer after the softener (depends how hard (dirty) your water is). I installed a pipe and backflow preventer for both softened and hard water (from before and after the softener) to my sprinkler system. I then installed two master valves and joined them together(after the master valves) to the sprinkler valve box. This way, I can selectivley throw hard or softened water to different zones. If you choose to do this, you should install your carbon system (stinky smell eliminator)down steam from your sofener and sprinkler connections since there is no benefit of running your sprinkler system through this device.

phughes

New Member

Posts: 3

Location: USA

7

Monday, November 17th 2003, 2:54am

Many thanks! DIYer . . .you make several great points.

Rays, I think I will have adequate GPM and Pressure . . .The driller knows my intentions and comes highly reccommended. I live in an area (Southern Delaware) where water is plentiful only 50 feet down(good water as well). I am really relying on him to do the right thing for me thus the question to the form so that I may educate myself. I believe he is going to get between 20 -30GPM at 40psi.

Rays Sprinklers

Supreme Member

Posts: 493

Location: USA

8

Friday, November 21st 2003, 5:14am

oohh then your fine. 20-30 GPM is alot! although the 40 PSI is a little low, but will do fine for what you are doin!
Thanks
Ray
Rays Above and Beyond Automatic Lawn Sprinklers

David

New Member

Posts: 2

Location: USA

9

Monday, September 13th 2004, 8:51am

I have a deep well that is about 200' from my house and pressure tank. Can I tap into the main line and install the back flow and valves at the well instead of taping into it inside the house and coming out again? The deep well is on the side of the house and I can run to the front and back of the house from that point without having to come off the pressure tank, through the wall and then run around the house.
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