You are not logged in.

grouchomc

Unregistered

1

Sunday, July 19th 2020, 7:48pm

Valve Identification

System is about 13 years old; one zone is leaking. I cleaned out the assembly, but no change so I'm thinking I need to replace the diaphragm? Here's a pic of one of the valves:
http://mccollester.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/07/sprinkler-1.jpg
url=https://ibb.co/z2Z3JXH]
Thanks for any help you can provide!

This post has been edited 2 times, last edit by "mrfixit" (Jul 20th 2020, 3:44am)


mrfixit

Moderator

Posts: 2,472

Location: USA

2

Sunday, July 19th 2020, 9:07pm

That's a Toro 250

Easy to rebuild. Sometimes they crack on the bottom though then the whole valve needs replacing.

You'll need to make sure it's a 1" or the pipe sizing and determine if it's a dual port or a tri-port valve. From the picture it looks like a tri-port but you'll need to make sure.

It's the dual ports that crack.

grouchmc

Unregistered

3

Monday, July 20th 2020, 8:22am

Toro 250

Thanks! Is there a way I can tell if it's dual or tri outside of the sticker?
Also, I was looking at the parts manual and don't see the pins coming out of the flow control column that this one seems to have?
http://mccollester.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/07/valve-1-scaled.jpg

http://mccollester.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/07/valve-2-scaled.jpg

mrfixit

Moderator

Posts: 2,472

Location: USA

4

Tuesday, July 21st 2020, 2:23am

Ok, now that I see the other side of the valve, you only need a dual port valve. The tri-port has one on the bottom of the valve as well. Yours could still be a tri-port. Either one will work in your case.
Strange that the metering pin isn't in that diagram. But that's your valve.
From what I see in your pic, it would be a fairly easy job to install a whole new valve.
Or, you could buy a new valve, swap out all the parts. Keep body in case the old one cracks.

GERgrouchomc

Unregistered

5

Tuesday, July 21st 2020, 7:26am

Valve Identification

Great, thanks for your help!

Wet_Boots

Supreme Member

Posts: 5,349

Location: Metro NYC

6

Thursday, July 23rd 2020, 3:55pm

.....Strange that the metering pin isn't in that diagram......
there are some of the Toro 250 series electric valves where there is no metering pin - they had a slightly different diaphragm assembly, with a fine-mesh filter screen on the diaphragm to protect the metering orifice on the assembly

A factor to consider on these valves when they develop body cracks, is that every one of the 250 series valves in the system is liable to go the way of the first cracked valve. There are other makes and models of zone valves to replace the 250's, in a new/rebuilt manifold.

grouchomc

Unregistered

7

Saturday, July 25th 2020, 10:29pm

Valve Identification - almost..

Well the one's I orderd did indeed have the pin. Unfortunately I'm guessing/noticing that maybe the new 250s have come spec'ed with a diaphragm that's about 1-2 mm smaller radius; I swapped the parts, turned on the water, and the valve doesn't close. I replaced the diaphragm, spring, and the white collar listed as 'diaphragm support' in the parts manual. I'm going to try again in the morning just replacing the spring as I noticed the difference in tension between the new and old one was significantly different and I don't see any cracks on the original diaphragm (Southern winters ftw).

mrfixit

Moderator

Posts: 2,472

Location: USA

8

Sunday, July 26th 2020, 3:20am

The parts will fit.
Did the plunger and or spring fall out of the solenoid?
Or did the plunger fall out and it got put in backwards?
The pointy part goes upwards, not towards the valve.

Rate this thread