<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by bobw</i>
<br />Your best bet is to use a voltmeter at both the controller and the valve. Check at the controller end first to ensure that you are putting out some voltage (i.e. the controller is working properly, you have programmed it correctly). If this is good, go back to your valve and take off the grease caps and disconnect the wires. Test the voltage on the wires coming from your controller. If you have no voltage, then you've got a break in your wire somewhere. If you have voltage, then CAREFULLY(hey, even at 24V, it'll give you a good tingle) hold the wires from the valve to the wires from the controller. You should definitely hear a sound when the connection is made. If not, then its likely the solenoid is no good. This would seem pretty unlikly with two new valves acting this way.
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Well guys,
I found the problem to be two of the 14 gauge wires that I pulled through conduit that possibly picked up breaks in wire because of tight turns in the conduit itself. I still had about 7 spare wires to use, so it wasn't a problem. Once switched out, then the valves started operating. Here are my multi-meter tests that I did to test for correct A/C voltage (18-30v according to manuf.) if anyone was interested:
<b>Checked voltage of outlet at wall,110v - passed
Checked voltage of transformer wires - passed
Checked all ports on controller 1-9 when activated - passed
Swapped out bad wires at valves with good ones
Check voltage of new wires at valves when activated - passed
Connected everything back up </b>
The irrigation system is now up and running thanks to everyone's help here (knock on wood **). i'm sticking around this forum though because it's fun to learn of new stuff on here. I've also gone ahead and ordered this troubleshooting device from sprinklerwarehouse for any future solenoid testing e.t.c. here:
http://www.sprinklerwarehouse.com/detail.aspx?ID=813