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garytjanik

New Member

Posts: 3

Location: Atlanta, GA

1

Thursday, September 18th 2014, 1:56pm

Drip line to just one head?

I have a Rain Bird system that was installed about 7 years ago. I'm getting ready to put a raised garden in my back year that will sit over an existing pop-up sprinkler head (the garden bed is going to be about 4'x8' and the existing head will be in the front left corner). I'm wondering what my options are here? I'd really like to just put a drip line on that one head and keep all the other heads in that zone as-is since they are needed mainly because there are heads on risers on the side of my house that water the shrubs and the grass. However, all the retro-fit kits I've researched say that all heads need to be converted or capped. This zone is in my backyard and is about 10 feet below my zone 1 and 2 in my front yard (the sides of my house are on a steep grade). My control box has the ability for 12 zones, but when I open it, it looks like theirs only one module in there for zone 1-4. So, I don't know how feasible it would be to add a zone myself. Any advice? I figure, worst case scenario, I can add a riser to the head now (so it's flush with the top of my raised garden bed), but I wouldn't want to keep the same pop up head in there since it would just spray the leaves of my vegetables...which is not ideal.

Wet_Boots

Supreme Member

Posts: 4,102

Location: Metro NYC

2

Thursday, September 18th 2014, 7:25pm

The reason you read about capping heads is that standard emitter-tube drip irrigation applies water much more slowly than sprays, so you aren't looking to run them together. You can, however work up some high-flow drip irrigation for the raised bed, and create a better match for the sprays on the same zone.

garytjanik

New Member

Posts: 3

Location: Atlanta, GA

3

Thursday, September 18th 2014, 9:11pm

Drip line to just one head?

Thank you for the reply. Do you know what type of head or kit I could use? I see rain bird makes several drip conversion kits. However I know those are regulated. Would that matter? If so, I also see a rain bird 6 port free flow manifiold that is unregulated. Would this be a better solution? Thanks again.

Wet_Boots

Supreme Member

Posts: 4,102

Location: Metro NYC

4

Friday, September 19th 2014, 10:17am

The 1800-Retro kit is a good way to go, since it lets you connect anything downstream, feeding it with filtered regulated water. Since raised gardens usually have a limited number of plants, you might look to feed them by way of "old school" drip irrigation with emitters feeding "spaghetti" tubing that drips precisely where you choose. An example of how the pieces can be assembled can be seen in this hanging plant detail from a Rainbird instruction manual.



All the bits and pieces can be found here

{by the way, keep the questions public by posting them on these threads - the questions and answers are for all to see and learn from}

garytjanik

New Member

Posts: 3

Location: Atlanta, GA

5

Monday, September 22nd 2014, 12:50pm

Hi Wet_Boots - Thank you again for the reply and for the advice on forum etiquette. With regards to your reply, are you offering two different solutions (one being the rain bird retro fit kit and one being the "old school" drip method)? To add to my original post, I am looking to install some type of drip irrigation for my raised garden, which is the one downstream/downhill from the valves. That will have probably about 12 different types of vegetable plants. Again, this is on a zone that needs to still have regular heads (some pop-up and some heads attached to risers). Which system do you think would be the best here? Can you explain the "old school" method in a littler further detail (do I need a special filter, regulator and/or head)?

Also, if I can do it, I was thinking of adding some type of drip irrigation to my rose bushes which are level with the valves on my property, and the head is currently just a spray head on a riser. This zone also has pop-ups that need to stay. I was just thinking that rose bushes would benefit from a more targeted flow of water since currently the head that waters them now tends to spray the tops of the bushes (which isn't ideal for roses). Since this one is not downstream, is there a kit or parts that would work best here?

In both cases and if at all possible, I don't want to have to over water my other plants on these zones by putting a low flow drip line (e.g. most emitters I see say they're like 1-2 GPH -- keeping my system on for 30mins-1hour would be overkill for my other plants on those same zones with pop-up and spray heads). So, any other advice on what you think would work best for either or both cases would be greatly appreciated. If there's certain links to products or kits on the website that will work, just include the links or product names.

Thanks again for all of your help!

Wet_Boots

Supreme Member

Posts: 4,102

Location: Metro NYC

6

Tuesday, September 23rd 2014, 12:11pm

The "old school" drip and 1800 Retro kit work together. The retro kit provides the drip water from an existing zone, and can even feed a drip-only zone all by itself, provided you don't need more than the 4 gpm flow limit of the retro kit. A dedicated drip zone flowing more than 4 gpm would have separate filtering and regulation (or perhaps a combo unit)

There isn't any one page I can direct you to that will list every single item I employ for 'old school' drip, but I can list the components of the hanging basket illustration, in order of water flow: Rainbird XT-700 distribution tubing, Xeribug emitter, 1/4-inch "spaghetti" tubing, support stake, and bug cap.

Note in particular that while the Rainbird Xeribug emitters top out at a 2 gph flow, they have more emitters, with a slightly different name, that have flows up to 24 gph, that you can use in place of the more common Xeribug emitters. it's up to you to work out the numbers as to what plants need what, and what application rates best match existing spray heads that will run with the drip.

Just remember that an 1800 retro kit is intended to supply up to 240 gph, and that will help you match up emitters to the planted area they are watering.

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