SPRINKLER TALK FORUM - You Got Questions, We've Got Answers

OK, I have read many topics similar, but still don't know how to resolve. It started with a leaking zone, which I suspect I have fixed by disassembling the suspect valve for this zone, in which I found debris on the diaphram seat. But, after reassembling the valve and turning back on the water (with the controller still off) the zone came on. I thought perhaps I did not reassemble the valve correctly, so I disassembled the next zone in the valve box to study again how the valve should be assembled.....then reassembled both zones and now both zones are always on, even with the controller off. This is a Toro system, probably 10 years old. The solenoid is contained in a plastic housing which screws into the lid of the valve. The lid of the valve screws into the body of the valve. Both are integral threads in the plastic housing (not 4 screws, etc. as I have read within this forum). In both instances, I unscrewed the valve first, the lid second, removed the diaphram, spring, etc. and cleaned. Then I replaced the diaphram, set the spring and pintle into the lid, then replaced the lid. And finally, replaced the solenoid to the lid. There is an indication on the solenoid that you can manually turn the valve on at the valve. Have I done something to activate this feature which makes these valves always on?? How do I undo whatever I have done and get these zones to work on the controller again???

OK - So I will disassemble again, verify no debris, and then reassemble but somehow make sure I get both the lid and the solenoid as tight as possible?? Besides the zone working properly, is there a way to tell that the lid and solenoid have been tightened properly?? There is not an external water leak at either valve currently. Are there markings or torque values which should be made to ensure function?? The diaphram does have some non-symmetric features. There is a flimsy plastic tab which I suspect is used to aid in removal of the diaphram from the housing. On the bottom of the diaphram there are two white hard plastic tabs or nubs which are opposite each other. Do I need to align the nubs to the body when replacing the diaphram???

Regarding the Toro valves...........this is the first summer I have been at this house and the first time I have toyed with the sprinklers. Is there a history that would lead me to undertake the work required to remove 8 zones worth of Toro valves?? Will the future headaches outweigh the time and expense of such a project???