Bleeder valve stuck off

New Member

Monday, May 27th 2002, 10:12am

I've got a set of Irritrol 2711APR valves, all but one of which are working fine. One of the valves does not allow water flow unless I crack open the small plastic screw on its top. I'm guessing that this screw is some kind of bleeder, although it would appear that it is so small it could only be useful for vacuum/air bleed.

All of the other valves have this small screw tightened all the way in, and they appear fine. The problem valve works fine (manually or via solenoid), so long as the small screw is opened just enough to let water leak out of it. I don't want to leave the small screw open all the time, and this seems like something is broken, anyway.

Do I need to open up the valve and try to clean it out? Is this some sort of "vapor lock" problem?

The valve is being used to drive a set of 8 pop-ups, FWIW.

Thanks in advance for any advice,

Steve T.

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SprinklerGuy

Supreme Member

Posts: 358

2

Tuesday, May 28th 2002, 5:31am

Go to the store, or here at swarehouse and buy a new Irritrol R-205TF or any other model of 205 with flow control.

Replace the top (bonnet) and the s
olenoid and the diaphragm on yours with the parts from the new valve.
Be careful when aligning new diapragm.......

Sprinkler Solutions, Inc.
Arizona and Colorado
www.sprinklersolutions.net

Sprinkler Solutions, Inc.
Arizona and Colorado
www.sprinklersolutions.net

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swturner

New Member

Posts: 4

3

Thursday, May 30th 2002, 5:07am

Thanks for the advice. That sounds straightforward enough, but I'm curious as to why you suggest I essentially replace all the moving parts of the valve. Did my description make it obvious to you that the existing one is completely broken?

If I'm going to have to replace virtually all of the valve, I think I'll first go ahead and take it apart and see if I can see a defect. Anything in particular I should look for?

(BTW, if I do end up buying a replacement valve, or other parts - this forum, and your prompt reply, has convinced me to buy it from you.)

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SprinklerGuy

Supreme Member

Posts: 358

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Thursday, May 30th 2002, 11:41am

It's just that if you are going to all the trouble to open the valve up you may as well get it all done at once. And...cheaper to buy the entire valve than it is to buy it piece by piece.....Plus another problem with that particular valve is that sometimes the new diaphragms do not mesh well with the old bonnets....not worth messing with in my opinion. Take it from someone who has seen "murphy's law" at it's worst....do it all now and save some hassle.

Thanks

Sprinkler Solutions, Inc.
Arizona and Colorado
www.sprinklersolutions.net

Sprinkler Solutions, Inc.
Arizona and Colorado
www.sprinklersolutions.net

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swturner

New Member

Posts: 4

5

Saturday, June 8th 2002, 11:06am

Well, I did as suggested, and the problem remains...

I first tried replacing just the diaphram, and as you indicated it did not work well with the old bonnet. So I replaced the bonnet as well. I was careful to align the diaphram, etc. I was encouraged because when I tested it out before wiring up the solenoid, it appeared to work - I was surprised that the solenoid appeared to have the valve open by default.

So I turned the water back off at the supply, wired up the solenoid, and - darned if it doesn't behave just like the old one. It doesn't work unless I crack the bleeder valve just a tad. I'm wondering if there could be something broken about the anti-siphon part of the head? With this change, I've replaced all the moving parts, so maybe there's something stuck somewhere??

One other nit - the R-205TF I bought at your suggestion doesn't have a manual lever on its solenoid like the 2711APR did. This is annoying, as I liked being able to use that to open the lines for testing the heads, etc. Now I have to do all that from the timer panel, and if the circuit is broken it will be harder to diagnose.

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SprinklerGuy

Supreme Member

Posts: 358

6

Monday, June 10th 2002, 3:59am

Under the solenoid in the bonnet is a port....looks like a "tit" for lack of a better word..sorry. This port is an "outie" and it goes into a port in the body of the valve that is an "innie". If either of these is plugged the valve will NOT WORK with the timer. Try this:

Turn the water off and remove the solenoid. Activate the timer, does the solenoid pull it's pin up? If so, the circuit is good. If not, the wires may be broken to that valve....

If the circuit is good: Check the ports, use a paper clip to ensure that they are clear....check your installation to make sure the ports line up correctly. If all that is good check this: Is there a white plastic retainer ring on the new solenoid? Remove it with needle nose pliers it should pop right out....DO NOT LOSE THE PIN THOUGH.....

Also, the new solenoid should have an o'ring inside of itself....no need for the oring that you may have taken out of the old bonnet....make sure there is NOT AN O'RING IN THE BONNET ITSELF right where the solenoid screws in......

Try all this and get back to me......sprinklersolutions@msn.com Good Luck! I'm with ya!

Sprinkler Solutions, Inc.
Arizona and Colorado
www.sprinklersolutions.net

Sprinkler Solutions, Inc.
Arizona and Colorado
www.sprinklersolutions.net

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swturner

New Member

Posts: 4

7

Sunday, June 16th 2002, 2:16pm

I guess I must have somehow misaligned the solenoid nipple. I'm baffled as to how that could have been a problem at the start, but maybe there was blockage in there somehow.

Anyhow, I did as you suggested, and the new bonnet still didn't work. (No sign of an extra O-ring or retainer, and the solenoid popped in and out just fine.) In desperation, I replaced the *original* bonnet, and - miracle of miracles - it all seems to work now...

So, perhaps there was blockage in the bonnet to start with, because I used a paper-clip to clear the solenoid hole there, too. And perhaps I screwed up and mis-aligned the nipple when I installed the new bonnet. But however it works - I ain't touching it now!

Thanks a lot for the advice.

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Patrick Graham

Starting Member

Posts: 1

8

Saturday, February 11th 2006, 7:53am

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by swturner
 Well, I did as suggested, and the problem remains...

I first tried replacing just the diaphram, and as you indicated it did not work well with the old bonnet. So I replaced the bonnet as well. I was careful to align the diaphram, etc. I was encouraged because when I tested it out before wiring up the solenoid, it appeared to work - I was surprised that the solenoid appeared to have the valve open by default.

So I turned the water back off at the supply, wired up the solenoid, and - darned if it doesn't behave just like the old one. It doesn't work unless I crack the bleeder valve just a tad. I'm wondering if there could be something broken about the anti-siphon part of the head? With this change, I've replaced all the moving parts, so maybe there's something stuck somewhere??

One other nit - the R-205TF I bought at your suggestion doesn't have a manual lever on its solenoid like the 2711APR did. This is annoying, as I liked being able to use that to open the lines for testing the heads, etc. Now I have to do all that from the timer panel, and if the circuit is broken it will be harder to diagnose.

<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

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rand651522

Active Member

Posts: 11

Location: USA

9

Saturday, February 11th 2006, 8:48am

Quoted

Originally posted by Patrick Graham
 

Quoted

Originally posted by swturner
 

Sorry I was trying to respond to Patrick.The one thing you said about not being able to open the Zone at the Valve.You still can by just slighlty turning the solenoid counterclock-wise.Let it bleed off and you will be opening the valve right there.Hope this helps.[]