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Zone won't come on unless bleeder valve is opened

sto237880

Starting Member

Posts: 1

1

Sunday, September 18th 2005, 9:16am

Zone won't come on unless bleeder valve is opened

We have a 6-zone system. Zone 2, an Irritrol 2623 3/4" valve, does not open in the cycle, while the other zones (with same valve model) work correctly.

This valve has a little screw for the bleeder valve.

If I open the bleeder valve with the zone off, the sprinklers come on after a few seconds, and stay on until I close the bleeder valve.

If I open the bleeder valve with the zone on (say, manual on for 20 minutes), the sprinklers come on. After a few seconds, I can close the bleeder valves and the sprinklers stay on until the controller shuts off the zone.

In both cases the sprayheads have full water pressure and appear to be working normally.

I just can't get the zone to come on automatically, without manually opening the bleed valve to get it started.

I guess/hope wiring is OK (controller can shut off zone, and start it with my help). It looks like I need to shut off the house water supply and open up/replace the valve. Any ideas?

Thanks!

Wet_Boots

Supreme Member

Posts: 4,102

Location: Metro NYC

2

Sunday, September 18th 2005, 11:44am

Replace the valve internals. Just buy a new one, and switch them out. http://www.irritrolsystems.com/valves/2623.html

sptaylor98

Active Member

Posts: 6

Location: USA

3

Monday, September 19th 2005, 6:42am

I recently experienced the same problem. By replacing the solenoid (which failed to open the valve automatically but closed it after I manually opened the valve using the bleeder control), the problem resolved itself.

pnardone

New Member

Posts: 4

Location: USA

4

Tuesday, September 20th 2005, 4:35am

i have the same problem. i can use the bleeder control and have the sprinklers pop up, but i can't get it to work on the timer.

Any ideas on how difficult it is to replace the valve? I took my solenoid to an irritrol dealer and they assured me the solenoid was working (ran a test on it).

i assume now the problem is the valve.

for a novice, are there any diagrams or instructions on how to replace/repair the valve?

thanks

Wet_Boots

Supreme Member

Posts: 4,102

Location: Metro NYC

5

Tuesday, September 20th 2005, 5:49am

The missing ingredient in this thread is the quality of the wiring in the problem systems. Curing a problem valve by replacing a solenoid, might actually be effecting a cure by redoing the wiring connections at the solenoid, since the solenoid itself was never the real problem. Check that wiring, and redo, with 'wire nuts', any suspect connections. A pro would be able to see suspect wire connections, and run resistance tests to look for any other wiring problems.

<b>pnardone</b> - buy another of the same valve you're having problems with, and use it to learn how it's put together, and as a source of repair parts.

pnardone

New Member

Posts: 4

Location: USA

6

Wednesday, September 21st 2005, 10:45am

thanks for the advice. i have already purchased a replacement valve. unfortunately the 2400t does not come apart, at least that i can tell.

does anyone have experience using the 2400t by irritrol?

thanks

Wet_Boots

Supreme Member

Posts: 4,102

Location: Metro NYC

7

Wednesday, September 21st 2005, 12:32pm

Of course it comes apart. With one hand on the valve body, where the water enters and exits, and one hand on the ridged cover retaining ring, you just unscrew the retaining ring. If it's on too tight to remove by hand, you use a large pair of slip-joint pliers.

Jazzer K

Active Member

Posts: 37

Location: USA

8

Saturday, December 31st 2005, 10:46am

first try to take the body screws out and see if the is some dirt or plactic inside the valve. Clean if there is- if not just buy a new one I could send you a new one if needed. I use all kind of 1 and 1-1/2" hunter and r-birds. Let me know!
Kasper's Landscape & Design Inc.
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