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Boots is correct, sloppy cement will most definitely cause this problem, but not likely in both zones. Using a snake would be a better idea than digging and cutting. The only thing is, they get caught in fittings and can give you a false sense of where the blockage or pinch can be. Although it might be a sound choice for your first step. <><
Josh
Irrigation /Landscape Lighting / Pump and Well Specialist
So, upon further inspection I figured out that valve 6 is ok. Valve 5 is now the only problem valve. I haven't snaked it yet, but I will let you know when I do. At least it is just one valve that is the problem, not 2.
Ahat was the problem with #6? That may help us figure out what happened to 5.
Thanks,
Pete
Hi Pete,
It turns out nothing was wrong with 6. I think I just assumed that everything past 5 wasn't going to work and I didn't test 6 as thouroughly as I tested the other valves. 5 is definitely not working and unfortunately that is the valve that waters the lawn and most of the hillside. It is the most important valve.
Thank you for asking!
So how confident are you that water is getting to the valve. To me at this point I am convinced of nothing. Let try to keep this very simple. We either have a problem wheree water cant get to the valve, a problem with the valve, or a problem after the valve. Since water only folws one direction through your system I would be sure water is getting to the valve.
Thanks,
Pete
Hi Pete,
It is definitely getting to the valve. When I undo the bleed screw water pours out of the valve. I also undid the union and water pours out of the valve. Also, the pipe that takes the water from the valve to the sprinklers is full (of water).
Thank you for helping me to troubleshoot this!
So what about the first head after the valve? No water?
Thanks,
Pete
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by elbee</i>
<br />Nope. No water.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">
We at least you've narrowed it down a bit. What we usually do is try to follow the pipe. Dig it up every few feet or so. But I like the suggestions here about using a snake or steel fish tape. I'll have to look into buying those.
You mentioned there are trees. Walk the area between the valve and the first head. See if you notice any roots near the surface that are in line with the direction of the pipe.
I ran into a problem one time where there was little to no pressure going to the heads. No visible leaks. It was a fairly small zone. So we started to follow the pipe. What we came upon was a leak where the slit was facing down and just eroding the ground under it. But 99% of the time I find that if pressure loss is that significant, it's not a leak and usually an obstruction or crushed pipe.
Thank you for your input. I think I am going to try the steel fish tape because I don't think I will find a snake that is thin enough for 3/4" pipe. After that I will probably call in a professional. I was also doing some research on the web and it looks like there is leak detection equipment that pro's use to find a leak or obstruction. Anyone familiar with this? Also, if anyone has a recommendation for someone in the Los Angeles area, that would be much appreciated as well.
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