SPRINKLER TALK FORUM - You Got Questions, We've Got Answers

FIRST STEP IS TO REPLACE THE SOLENOID. 99% OF THE TIME IT IS THE CULPRIT. MAKE SURE YOU HAVE A GOOD, AND I MEAN GOOD, WATER-TIGHT CONNECTION ON THE WIRES WHEN YOU REPLACE THE SOLENOID. IF THAT DOES NOT FIX IT, THEN CHANGE THE DIAPHRAGM ON THE INSIDE OF THE VALVE.

BEST OF LUCK
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Sorry duke....hate to disagree with you here...but in my 20 some odd years of doing this....I can probably count the number of bad solenoids I have come across on both hands and feet...

Add that to this comment:

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">on and I can hear the water come up to the valve and then nothing.<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">

And you have the makings of a bad diaphragm.

Here is what I would do:

Buy the valve....entire valve is cheaper than buying the components seperately..replace the diaphragm and the bonnet..(plastic top piece)....don't bother with the solenoid at this time....

Save it for later..you know about 20 years from now when it goes bad.

Let us know what happens so others can learn from this....

Thanks

i agree with sprinklerguy, the solenoid is the least likely culprit

Let me explain my reasoning for the replacement of the solenoid instead of the guts as a first step. In most cases (and this could be exclusive to my area) the only problem I have seen a diaphragm have, is to be clogged with debris or a build-up of elements in the water. A simple cleaning should Suffice. (as I said, in most cases)

I have found in my 16 years of experience that if you recommend a full diaphragm replacement to a non professional as a first step, parts are inadvertently lost, dropped down the port of the valve and etc (due to the unfamiliarity of the valve)... But in this case we can even go further, if we knew what principle the valve functions on we could really tell wether it is a diaphragm or a solenoid (a reverse flow or forward flow). And as you can imagine how difficult this can be to try and explain this to a non professional. As you are prabably aware, a reverse flow valves diaphragm will fail in the closed position and a forward in the open. Since 90% of the valves on the market are on the principle of forward flow (with the exception of the Rain-Bird DV Series) we could assume a solenoid. But, GrassyKnoll stated that he has a Hunter SRV (forward flow) valve, and with this I will assume that it is a solenoid problem.

But! Having the luck that I do, and being an expert with Murphy's Law, it could still be the diaphragm. And since I went through all of this to explain the principles of valves, it most probably will! :-)

Forward flow valves fail in the closed position as well...in fact I would say the VAST MAJORITY of my service calls in the Arizona market are for "my sprinklers aren't coming on".....of those calls the VAST MAJORITY of them are Richdel R-205 valves (forward flow).....and the VAST MAJORITY of those valves have a broken diaphraghm screw resulting in no flow of water through the valve.

I understand your reasoning in having him replace the solenoid first....however....my reasoning is lets fix the valve on the first shot.

I'm not sure what your market is....I'm also not sure where your 16 years of experience are....but I have probably repaired 10,000 sprinkler systems in the last 20 some odd years....

This isn't a pissing match..let's help this guy fix his problem....but lets start with the most obvious solution.

Shocking...how the heck could I have been right?

Your welcome....come back and see us anytime. Most of us are about to get VERY busy though...so don't expect such a rapid response once spring hits.

SprinklerGuy,

I took no offense to your disagreement or your rebuttal, and for that matter, I didn't have to pee either. I did however, find it interesting to say the least. I have often wondered why things are so different in other areas/ or markets. This seems to prove a theory I have had for many years now. Please, allow me to explain......

I went back to my records to see if I might have been mistaken about my assumption. In my area (Alabama and primarily North West Florida) we do sell far more solenoids than diaphragms. In fact the ratio is a strong 11 to 1 (695 solenoids to 63 diaphragms). I did the search on 1" valves only and over the past three years to get a more accurate average. This finding caused me to ponder the difference in your findings and mine. I believe you said "I can probably count the number of bad solenoids I have come across on both hands and feet" and I would say "Ditto" but to the Diaphragm instead. So with that, can you answer a few question for me?

What is the water supply on most of the valve failures in your area (well or municipal)?
Could the ph or mineral presence in the water be a factor in these failures?
Are these valve failures primarily in older valves or some of the more modern valves?
These failures, are they tears in the diaphragms or merely clogging?
What is the major preference / brand of valve in your area?
Is this failure more predominant in a particular brand / model of valve?
You referred to an Irritrol / Richdel 205 series valve as a major culprit to these failures. Since I am not overly familiar with this valve (other than I think it is a forward flow valve with a metering rod in it) can you explain the broken screw?

I welcome anyone to respond, I find it incredibly interesting to see what the vast responses will be from the many different areas.
Thanks