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2 zones run at the same time

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five0.4tluv

Active Member

Posts: 6

1

Thursday, September 4th 2008, 9:17pm

2 zones run at the same time

I have a new problem with my system. I have a 12 zone system, here is the history to date. Zone 5 runs at the same time as any other zone. I first replaced the solenoid on valve5, then removed the cap and noticed the diaphragm was damaged. I could not find the correct replacement so I've replace the entire valve. That did not fix the problem. I removed the control wire from the controller, still no help. I have now unplugged both solenoid wires from the system common and the control wire from the controller for this zones valve, still runs.
Could it be debris in the line causing the new valve to stick? What is the best way to clear the line?
Also there is no voltage at the controller for that zone during the test. Each zone has below 1V when not running and Zone5 has 3.5V, the zone that is suppose to run has 24V.

Thanks.

mrfixit

Moderator

Posts: 1,510

Location: USA

2

Thursday, September 4th 2008, 11:01pm

Valve wont shut off

Maybe you installed the new valve backwards. Maybe the solenoid plunger is stuck in the open position. Maybe the solenoid is turned counter clockwise to the on position. Is there a little black switch which opens the solenoid? Perhaps it's in the on position. It could be debris as you suggested. Maybe take the valve apart and see. What make and model valve is it? Is the controller in a yellow metal cabinet?

Lowvolumejeff

Advanced Member

Posts: 91

Location: Seattle Area

3

Thursday, September 4th 2008, 11:59pm

Interesting

Quoted from "five0.4tluv"

Could it be debris in the line causing the new valve to stick? What is the best way to clear the line?
Also there is no voltage at the controller for that zone during the test. Each zone has below 1V when not running and Zone5 has 3.5V, the zone that is suppose to run has 24V.



Not sure I follow all you are trying to convey. So will answer part. Didn't get you replaced a whole valve, just a solenoid, and you can;t put that in backwards. Think you have done zone elimination, but before that, simple question.

When you turn eveything off, does zone 5 still run? If so, I'd check for debrie in the valve, causing the diaphram to stick open. Your valve can't close and will remain a little open when all power is off. Fix is easy. Carefully remove top, clean out dirt, replace top. I use a large syringe and wash everything out with blasts of water.

If that doesnt work, what happens when you cut both wires to zone 5 at the valve (or unattach them both). Let me know.

Write back it that doesn't help. jeff

mrfixit

Moderator

Posts: 1,510

Location: USA

4

Friday, September 5th 2008, 2:46am

Good thing

The good thing about these types of forums is people can get a variety of opinions. Hey Five, are you on a master valve or a pump? Let "ME" know. What valve did you install? Let "ME" know.

five0.4tluv

Active Member

Posts: 6

5

Friday, September 5th 2008, 7:17am

valve replaced

first, thanks to everyone.

valve and solenoid was replaced yesterday.
zone5's solenoid wires are disconnected and zone5 still runs when ANY other zone runs.
when power is removed or the zone that is "active" stops, zone5 stops also
I have a master valve

ME, I did not install the valve, my landscaper did it.

this was the exact symptom before the valve/solenoid was replaced and I attributed it to the damaged diaphragm.

five0.4tluv

Active Member

Posts: 6

6

Friday, September 5th 2008, 11:36am

update

the valve is clean. today, when I try to run any zone with the zone5 control wire and solenoid removed, nothing runs. if I leave the solenoid removed and just connect it up, I get water at zone5 and the other zone. A new solenoid installed and connected produces the same results.

Lowvolumejeff

Advanced Member

Posts: 91

Location: Seattle Area

7

Friday, September 5th 2008, 12:33pm

Got me stumped

Well, sounds like an electrical problem.

So, probalby a short or controller problem. Nedd someone more experienced than I. An idea is to isoate the problem, by powering each of the zones vlves from the controller wires using 3 9 volt batteries hooked in series, to see which valves are actuated. Iff each valve works (individually) when powered this way, I think your problem is likely the controller. If not, then looks to me like a short.

BTW, are there any extra unused wires from the controller to the valves?

I'm curious, when you opened the valve, did you find debrie?

Again, I await more experienced advice, and your results, We all learn that way. Sorry if I offened by using "me", didn't mean it that way.

Jeff

five0.4tluv

Active Member

Posts: 6

8

Friday, September 5th 2008, 1:46pm

more...

not a problem...
I've uncovered all the controller wires. they were just buried in the ground. My plan is to mark and clean up all the connections and put them in a ground control box. If that does not fix it I will run a new control wire above ground to the controller to see if I can narrow it down. I would guess it would not be a problem with the Valve Common wire connections. If these attempts fail, I'll call in the experts.

Lowvolumejeff

Advanced Member

Posts: 91

Location: Seattle Area

9

Friday, September 5th 2008, 2:46pm

question for you

That is probably the solution, but sounds like a lot of work. Have you ruled out the controller, just a thought before digging. I assume you have, just wondering. No valve debrie? I thought the valve was sticking open after the solenoid was disconnected?

Sorry if I am confusing a confusing situation, but I'm learning vicariously.

Jeff

five0.4tluv

Active Member

Posts: 6

10

Friday, September 5th 2008, 5:29pm

valve was clear

let me try to clarify. I just spent another hour troubleshooting

no debris in valve
removed solenoid and unwired all wires at the zone5 valve

in this configuration no zone runs, VC loop disconnected (this is what I would expect)

the VC wire from controller ties into 2 whites at the spot in the ground where all controller wires meet their valve

at the faulty zone (zone5) valve, there are 2 whites and 1 red.
if I turn on zone1 and measure the voltage at zone5

control wire

the controller wire is disconnected at the controller for zone5
red to 1 white - 16V
red to other white 3.5V
white to white 26V

next up, continuity test from controller wire area to zone5
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