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Leaky Toro 53380 Valve

michaelsmith

Unregistered

1

Sunday, April 19th 2009, 7:52am

Leaky Toro 53380 Valve

?( I am using a set of Toro 53380 3/4" in-line valves in a small (100 emitter/6 zone) greenhouse drip irregation system. The controller is a Toro 53768 ECXTRA, which is known good (no voltage to valves when OFF). Neither the master (at 50 PSI city water pressure) or zone valves (at 20 PSI reduced pressure) turn off completely and leak small, but significant amounts of water. I have contacted the TORO help line, but all they could do was tell me to check for dirt, bad parts etc., all of which I had already done. The valves are (apparently) good and the controller is known good - why do the valves not shut off completely? HELP!!!!!

worachj

Advanced Member

Posts: 63

Location: Eagan, Mn

2

Sunday, April 19th 2009, 8:31am

Quoted


COPIED FROM TORO's WEBSITE....

Why is the valve leaking?

** Make sure the water supply is shut off to the irrigation system prior to disassembling any portion of the valve to avoid injury.

If water leaks to the sprinkler heads, check the following:
  • Disconnect one of the wires at the valve. If this stops the leak the problem is not the valve. If the leak does not stop determine if the leak is internal or external.
  • Verify if Manual option is on - If yes, turn it to the off position.
  • Check valve diaphragm for a tear, pinhole or scratch. - Replace diaphragm.
  • Verify if the solenoid is stuck - The plunger inside the solenoid could be stuck. If it is stuck clean or replace solenoid.
  • Is debris visible - Clean out valve.
  • Internal crack - Replace valve

If water leaks to the valve box, check the following:
  • Check bleed screw. Is it closed? - The black or white flow control screw maybe loose or broken.
  • Is the Bonnet (top of the valve) tight? - Screws on the top of the cover assembly may need to be tightened.
  • If an external crack is present - Replace valve.

Replace parts as needed.
http://enterprisesearch.thetoroco.com/enterprise-search/toro/jsp/index.jsp?ip_text=53380&render=1&submit.x=8&submit.y=9

mrfixit

Moderator

Posts: 1,510

Location: USA

3

Sunday, April 19th 2009, 12:47pm

Swap out parts

Those valves are very inexpensive. What I would do if I was you is buy a whole new valve. Swap out all the internal parts as well as the top of the valve which has the solenoid attached to it. If you still have a leak you know there's a problem with the valve body such as a hairline crack in the seat. If so just reassemble the new valve and install. The master valve still needs attention. Is that also the same Toro model valve?

mrfixit

Moderator

Posts: 1,510

Location: USA

4

Tuesday, April 21st 2009, 1:24pm

Email

I received an email from Michael stating that I should remember that all 7 valves are leaking. So here I am. Ok Michael, if you repair the master valve then the other 6 valves will shut off. I speculate that the 6 valves wont close all the was due to the fact they're only under 20 lbs of pressure and can't close properly. Perhaps there's not enough water flowing through the master valve for it to shut off all the way. Some valves wont operate properly at a low flow. Look into replacing the master valve with something designed for use with low flow. I don't have a recommendation for which valve to buy. ---

Here's another scenario. Supposing you took out the master valve all together. Increased the pressure before the valves to 50. The valves should function properly under that pressure. Toro states those valves are good for drip so they should shut off under a low flow. Of course you'll have to add a pressure reducer after each valve leading to your drip.

This post has been edited 1 times, last edit by "mrfixit" (Apr 21st 2009, 1:37pm)

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