SPRINKLER TALK FORUM - You Got Questions, We've Got Answers

So, did you just snip the wires going into the control panel and re-splice the wire and stick it back in?

Anything else? Because this isn't working for me.

Thanks

I have the same issues, Junior max, 6 station indoor controller running only 1 station. 24V flashing/Auto LED light flashing. Battery Backup in place. However, the controller works in manual and semi auto modes. I can run a manual cycle just fine, and I can run semi-auto fine too. The controller triggers the valve solenoid on and off with no problems.

My issue is I dont think it is running in AUTO mode, cause my water bills have been lower than when it wasn't flashing 24V or LED flashing. I guess I would need to set it to run at a certain time, then go out and see if it comes on?? I am pretty busy, maybe I'll give it a shot. I dont understand this though? Any ideas as to what could be the deal?

Thanks.

no rain detector

last night, and it was running perfectly, on schedule. I am puzzled!!!!

I have the same problem.

I disassembled the controller and realized, that the pcb is burnt in two areas:

1. in top-right corner (large resistor and 3 capacitors around it)
2. below the leds, under the zener-diode

I replaced the capacitors and switched on the 24VAC. The resistor became hot in 1 minute and 24VAC started flashing.
At that moment I realized, the the zener-diode became also hot, which is a surprise for me, because zener-diodes have typically 10mA current....

Desoldering the zener-diode and giving the 24VAC, the controller worked as before (bad), but one of the electrolit condenser became warm, so I unplugged it.

As there was no sign on the zener-diode I could not replace it and to tell the truth I think this problem is not the fault of the zener-diode, it only shows the fault.

Because the controller is full with SMD parts and there is no documentation I do not really think, that I will spend my time with debugging. It is cheaper to buy another type of irrigation timer...

I cannot believe that someone can place 3 electrolyts just next to
heating resistor. This is clear indication that we should buy a new one
after 3-4-5 years and preferably of different brand. In my case 24V
started flashing during last year, but everything worked as it was
supposed to, so I left it. However, today I realized that it
does not work - display OK (apart from 24V), but there was no voltage on 1-8 outputs. I have read this
thread, wrote down Start times and Run times for particular zones, reset
unit completely, left it without power for some time, but it did not
help and finally de-installed unit. During opening i saw that right upper
screw was not fixed, because plastic thing around was burned out -
brown and fragile. 24 V did not go through joint of power resistor on
PCB, so i re-soldered it, but no luck with function, there was also
something else. Then I concentrated on already mentioned 3 capacitors
and decided to replace them completely - they are only 85 rated,
fortunately I found 105-centigrade ones in my spares. After another
reset it seems working fine on my workbench, also 24V disappeared and hopefully no surprise will occur when installed finally. And I have cut a square hole approx.
15x18mm in the cover next to hearing resistor. For the winter I will
unplug it completely, but I think that this ventilation hole will reduce
the temperature inside to acceptable level.

I have exactly the same problem with flashing 24V sign and no output power to solenoids. The PCB at the zener and at high power resistor is burnt. Thanks for sharing the issue with electrolyts because I wanted to replace the resistor only. Now I plan to replace all the 3 eletrolyts and the resistor.



Does anybody know the color codes on R5 resistor, the big one at the elecrolyts? Colors are not really visible on my component and I am not sure it kept the original value while overheated. I measured 151 Ohm.

Well, unfortunately I have further problems and partially similar to huflyer mentioned earlier. Multiple zones goes on concurrently. This seems some overheating issue, after power off and some break it gets corrected, but around 4th-5th zone (~15-20mins) it creates multiple zone problem. I pulled out PCB from box and testing now on desk. I realized that middle electrolyt (after replacements I put there 470uF/35V) is warm. But heating resistor is not the reason. I realized that voltage on this Cap is 33V= and 73V~?!?!, which I cannot understand. I need try different multimeter to verify AC value. Also ZD1 (located between red LED %scaling and PROG button) is overheated, PCB under it is already darker than the rest. I think R5 is 330R.

Although I do not think that the problem could be with precise capacity, could you pls share values of original electrolyt capacitors as I replaced one or two with not exactly same value. And also could you pls measure voltage on ZD1, whether it is 9.3V= or so. I will give some further tries, but already losing patience with such crappy tech design. But I have no ilusions that TORO or someone else will have much more reliable device, but this combination of power resistor and electrolyts is really great idea :-(

Harmi, I wil try to emasure the Zener voltage over the weekend. Original electolyts (from top to down): C9=100uF,16V,85C; C7(middle one)=220uF,50V,85C ; C8=470uF,16V,85C