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New Sprinkler system

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lgnguyen

Active Member

Posts: 10

Location: USA

1

Tuesday, July 22nd 2003, 5:50pm

New Sprinkler system

Hello everyone,
I'm new to this forum, but have learned a lot from all of you. I plan to install system myself, just for educated myself and may be saving some money (which I doubl about it). I am looking for some advise about my design. Here is my situation:
-Water meter is 1" copper, main line and tap pipe is 3/4 out to the house.
-I have to use 1" RPZ backflow (Watts) because higher slope in the back yard and the best protection. DC is not allow in this town. I expect pressure loss of about 12 psi (hope it is less).
-Measure PSI at the outside faucet is 64PSI (using meter).
-Measure GPM is 12 or 13 (timing using 2 gallons box)
-Plan to use 1 1/4 PVC pipe for main line around the house with about 3 manifold (1" PVC) tap from it. And all lateral line is 1" before into sprinkler head ( I have not figure out what size yet)
-Plan to use 4x I20 head = 4 GPM total for front yard which is 40'x40' (zone1)
-Use of 6x PGM = 2.25 GPM total for side of the house (zone2)
-Use of 10x I20 head = 2.45 GPM per zone (zone3 and zone4 = 5x each)
-Last zone is 4x PGM1.5 = 2.63 GPM (zone5)

After review the plan I realized that all zone have around 2.5 GPM exccept zone1 which 4 GPM. Should I reduce time to soap to match total water to the other zone ?

-I plan to use Hunt 1" PGV valves w/ flow control but re-think about it when Ray mention about using Irritrol 2400T. I will research about this.
Hope any one could help and giving me some advise if any thing wrong to this design.
Thanks
Long

Rays Sprinklers

Supreme Member

Posts: 493

Location: USA

2

Wednesday, July 23rd 2003, 7:11am

Hey,
Sounds good! Yes i like the Irritrol 2400T valve much better. Although i dont haoppen to use flow contorol. They have been around (sam design) for 35 years and if one breaks 20 years later, imsure it will still be the same....you can simply unscrew the insternals of the old and replace with new,,,,,its that easy. If you must use the PGV i would use the PGV jar-top they are much eaiser to service if needed. Also if you have 12-13 GPM why is each zone only using about 2.5.....each zone comes on seperatly so u can put up to 10.0 GPM per zone.......which means the way u have it now i would combine those PGM zones. Hte zones do not have to match, but i would just run the one with the I-20 a little less time because you must have the smallest nozzle in the PGM which needs to run for a longer period of time (twice the i-20) so everything levels off. i have 18 GPM and 98 PSI here, and i have the largest nozzles in the i-20 and they work awesome. Dont underbuild. Other wise everything sounds pretty well thought outg. I would use 1" pipe to the sprinkler heads.

If there is anything else please ask


Thanks
Ray
Rays Above and Beyond Automatic Lawn Sprinklers
Thanks
Ray
Rays Above and Beyond Automatic Lawn Sprinklers

Rays Sprinklers

Supreme Member

Posts: 493

Location: USA

3

Wednesday, July 23rd 2003, 7:13am

Hey,
Sounds good! Yes i like the Irritrol 2400T valve much better. Although i dont haoppen to use flow contorol. They have been around (sam design) for 35 years and if one breaks 20 years later, imsure it will still be the same....you can simply unscrew the insternals of the old and replace with new,,,,,its that easy. If you must use the PGV i would use the PGV jar-top they are much eaiser to service if needed. Also if you have 12-13 GPM why is each zone only using about 2.5.....each zone comes on seperatly so u can put up to 10.0 GPM per zone.......which means the way u have it now i would combine those PGM zones. Hte zones do not have to match, but i would just run the one with the I-20 a little less time because you must have the smallest nozzle in the PGM which needs to run for a longer period of time (twice the i-20) so everything levels off. i have 18 GPM and 98 PSI here, and i have the largest nozzles in the i-20 and they work awesome. Dont underbuild. Other wise everything sounds pretty well thought outg. I would use 1" pipe to the sprinkler heads.

If there is anything else please ask


Thanks
Ray
Rays Above and Beyond Automatic Lawn Sprinklers
Thanks
Ray
Rays Above and Beyond Automatic Lawn Sprinklers

drpete3

Supreme Member

Posts: 376

Location: USA

4

Wednesday, July 23rd 2003, 8:44am

I agree with ray on the gpm issue. you could easily get 60 psi at ten gpm per zone and that means less watering time.

Thanks,

Pete
Thanks,

Pete

lgnguyen

Active Member

Posts: 10

Location: USA

5

Wednesday, July 23rd 2003, 4:59pm

Thanks Rays and Pete,

It helps me a lot so I will go ahead to order everything today in this wedsite, it is reasonable price. Please let me know if there is any reasons I should not order these products:
-Hunter SRC900i controller
-I20 and PGM sprinkler heads
-PGV valves (I don't have to go w/ PGV, just try to have everything in Hunter products but still like to try 2400T valves)
-And some other accessaries thing.

However, I have noted there is someone talk about using HPV for Master Valve places after the backflow but before all others.
My questions is,
Is there any benefit to have Master valve install in the system?
Should I order a Rain sensor ? If I have to, then what kind ? there are so many fency one in this website and I don't know what I should go with.
By a way, I was wrong to come up total PGM per zone earlier. They are around 6.5 to 8 GPM each zone now. It took me a while to figure out. But I still not 100% be sure. If any one can give me an example then it would be big help.
Again, thank a lot for your advise.
Long


drpete3

Supreme Member

Posts: 376

Location: USA

6

Thursday, July 24th 2003, 5:47am

To calculate your gpm you must use the chart supplied by the head manufacturer then look up the psi of your system and correlate it to the nozzle installed in the head. As you may know rotors come with a tree of different nozzles so you can make adjustments to the gpm rating for each head. Then to calculate your total gpm for each zone add all of the head gpms and that will give you your total gpm per zone.

Thanks,

Pete
Thanks,

Pete

Rays Sprinklers

Supreme Member

Posts: 493

Location: USA

7

Thursday, July 24th 2003, 4:31pm

The list sounds good.....if your not using the stainless steel I-20, (just plastic) then i wouild go with a PGP they are the Num. 1 selling rotors, but the features they lack compared to its brother I-20 wont affect yuou any. The reason i say this is because the I-20 takes up to 5 pounds of pressure per head to pop-up, and i dont want you to have any otherproblems. The PGP will work better in your case!!!! As for rainsensor, yeah i think they are pretty cool......the best rainsensor is the mini-Click....(Hunter) or better yet the Wireless Rain Click also by Hunter. As far as valve i would use 1" Irritrol 2400T they are better than the hunter's. The SRC is the controller we use on all our installations and i never had a call back on them! THey are excellent!!!

Let me know if ther is anything else



Thanks
Ray
Rays Above and Beyond Automatic Lawn Sprinklers
Thanks
Ray
Rays Above and Beyond Automatic Lawn Sprinklers

lgnguyen

Active Member

Posts: 10

Location: USA

8

Thursday, July 24th 2003, 6:42pm

Thanks again Rays and Pete,

I have ordered everything today. But in the last minutes, I have decided buy only 5x I20 (instead of 15x as planed)and other 10x PGP because it is Onsale, it is less than $11 a piece. My front yard will have 4x I20 at four corner, but there is two zones so only 2x I20 run at time. I hope there is no problem w/ this setup.

Finally, I reallize that if one head at the corner set for quarter turn having 1 GPM then the midlle w/ half turn have to be 2 GPM so the water will spread even the surface at the same time. Earlier, I was used all the same head then divide it by 4 or by 2 depend on corner or middle location. That why it come up small. Still a little bit confuse but will hang in there.

I have learned a lot so far and I like it. The next part is putting thing together. Will keep post how thing will go. I have spent a little bit money for tooling and some waste material but it all worth.

It seems like no one give me a though about Master valve. Is it worth to do or not. Is it relate to the controller at all?
Thanks
Long


RVLI

Supreme Member

Posts: 462

Location: USA

9

Thursday, July 24th 2003, 7:05pm

Master valves, in my opinion are junk. When you say master valve you mean more wiring, more hassle and whatnot. Save yourself some stress and time by not installing a master valve and just putting in a PVB with manifolds of inline valves. Keep in mind that if you have a master valve you cannot use a PVB.

lgnguyen

Active Member

Posts: 10

Location: USA

10

Friday, July 25th 2003, 3:59am

Thanks RLVI,
It makes sense. I never see the point to have a Master Valve.
Long


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