SPRINKLER TALK FORUM - You Got Questions, We've Got Answers

Very, Very farmiliar with the FLO-PRO valve! Your best bet is to diassemble the valve, again, and verify that there are no creases on the lip of the diaphragm. It is imperative that the diaphragm is installed so the "lip" of the diaphragm seals both in the base's groove as well as the cap's groove. More importantly, check that the hole in the center of the diaphragm (which the stem is inserted into) is somewhat round. I have seen many brand new flo-pro diaphragms with a center hole that resembles more of a slit than a hole. This slit prevents the diaphragm from sliding easily on the stem, which causes the diaphragm to stick. Also check that the stem is tightly seated in the cap. Make sure the spring is in place. Make sure the selenoid has its O-Ring in place. Make sure the plunger of the selenoid moves freely. I have fallen victim myself to replacing a diaphragm and neglecting to check the selenoid, only to find out that a small piece of debris had caused the plunger to stick in the open position. Make sure to securely tighten the cap, or the valve will leak.



My opinion: TORO's biggest mistake. I promise you, fixing these valves will cost more in the long run, than replacing them. Irritrol 2400T-B's would be my suggestion.

Ditto Centrals rec. Flo Pro's were one of Toro's worst valve lines. We never installed them ourselves, but came across them in service calls and they were always problematic. Best thing you can do is change the complete valve out. The Irritol 2400 series has been around for many years and is very reliable.

I haven't seen a flo-pro installed for years.

www.lljohnson.com/Documents/rescom%20literature/Toro/Valves/Flo%20Pro%20Anti%20Siphon%20Installation%20Guide.pdf

They discontinued them probably 10 years ago. If I remember correctly they were only in production for 5 years or less. The company I currently work for installed thousands during this time.



The plunger I refer to in the selenoid is encapsulated. However the plunger is extremely susceptible to debris. Take the selonoid and shake it, if you hear a rattle sound coming from it, you're probably ok. If not, the plunger is more than likely sticking.



When it comes to servicing flo-pro valves, I always replace the diaphragm and selonoid. It's the only way to insure 100% reliability for the season.



If using Mr. Fixit's diagram, more than likely you are only concerned with parts 2, 3, 6, 7, 11, 12, and 13. The majority of the other parts are for flow control and anti siphon models.

The interesting thing about the Toro Flo-Pro, is that it was an attempt by Toro to copy the success of the Richdel 2400 jar-top valve. In the end, Toro dealt with their problem by buying the company that made the Richdel 2400 valve. If they had bought the company first, there would be no Flo-Pro valve to complain about.