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Like I said your issue at the moment isn't electrical, the valve is physically stuck on .

The way you explain it makes it seem like there is a master valve, you can check on this by looking at the wiring at the controller and if you see a wire running into the MV/ Pump port then you have a master valve

The way Your system works


Irrigation Shut off >>> Electronic Master Valve>> Main Line Pipe branching to valves > Valves ( Irrigating 1 zone per valve)

When the controller is OFF, the Master valve is turned off. Thus preventing water from flowing through the main line. When you turn the controller on, the master valve turns on and water starts flowing through the main line to the specified zone you turned on. Your problem is that you have a zone that is stuck on physically more then likely from debris ( I see the slip fix on the master valve Which is Hunter) this indicates a repair has been done on this valve.

If you hear water running through the valve on the other side of the driveway then more then likely this is the fouled up valve that is stuck on. Like I say this is not electrical.. Your can manually turn on the master valve by turning the solenoid on top 1/4 turn , if that zone with the 4 heads come on then now you know this is the stuck zone

The valve should probably be just replaced and the main line flushed to help prevent further valves from being damaged.

A normal ohm range of a solenoid is 20-60 though they can work outside this perimeter . You can do this by touching the common port and the zone port . Like I say though, your issue isn't electrical

If the diaphram is slit, then this is the reason for the zone to be stuck on

The easier thing would be to replace the diaphram. However it may be hard to find a repair kit.

Try to get the make and model of that valve and do a online search to see if there are any repair kits.

You can also take it to your local irrigation supply store ( Such as john deere landscapes, ewing and many more ) and see if they can help you out

If you feel you can cut out the valve and replace it with relative ease then this may be the better and quicker choice

Good luck!

I personally in your situation i would just replace the diaphram.. Though I don't like those kind of valves...

There isn't enough spacing between the pipes to rebuild the valve quickly and easily. You could cut the outlet side of the valve and spin the valve off from the thread, then just rebuild the outlet side.. Other than that your stuck with rebuilding the tee prior, the master valve and so on.

The Toro valve is repairable, and the other valve should be the same. If you take inventory of the entire system, you may find only one or two valves that are not identical to the others. In those cases, it sometimes simplifies life to install a replacement that makes all your zone valves of one (reliable and repairable) model.