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Weird...problem...at wit's end

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Wig

Unregistered

1

Wednesday, April 20th 2011, 2:44pm

Weird...problem...at wit's end

So I cannot get three valves to open up by the controller. They all work manually, however, wont open by the controller. However, the selenoids are working as I have unscrewed them and they vibrate when I give them power (even replaced two of them just to see. I replaced the diaphragms also. Here's the kicker, If I put the valves on by the controller, then open the valves manually...when the controller shuts them down they do shut off. Just can't get the controller to open them. These three are all in the same "valve box" however, they to two different zones. In fact, they include another sprinkler which is in a different valve box and that one works from the same zone !! Out of things to check...anyone have any ideas for these three valves that will not open !!!????
John

mrfixit

Moderator

Posts: 1,510

Location: USA

2

Wednesday, April 20th 2011, 4:02pm

Solenoids have to do more than vibrate. Do the plungers open?

Wig

Unregistered

3

Wednesday, April 20th 2011, 4:12pm

wits end

yes, solenoids seem to work. As I mentioned, they shut the water off after I manually start. Also, 2 of the three are new ones

Mitchgo

Supreme Member

Posts: 502

Location: Seattle

4

Wednesday, April 20th 2011, 11:10pm

Do you have a multimeter?

Check Ohm Resistance by touching the common wire and that particular zone wire at the controller- a normal operating ranger is 20-60 ohms, compare this to the other valves at the controller to see if these 3 valves are different then the rest.

If the 3 are different, go to your valve box and test for ohms by taking off your wire connections and testing the solenoid ( 1 goes to each wire on the solenoid)

If The ohms are fairly different then the ohms at the controller of these particular zones, this indicates you have a bad connection . There may be a splice somewhere in the field that has corroded . Re-do the splices and connections at the valve, check on the exterior side of your house where the controller exits for a splice box/ wire splice in the ground.

Another test to help confirm is the same thing on both ends just voltage. Your looking for around 24V

Mitchgo

Supreme Member

Posts: 502

Location: Seattle

5

Friday, April 22nd 2011, 12:10am

RE: wits end

Quoted from "Wig"

Thanks for your opinions. I did what you suggested. I get a reading of about zero......all the way to right...on my multimeter when I test those wires at the controller. also, out in the yard I get a reading of zero..on the selenoids...I tried it on several selenoids...also on a new one out of the box and get zero on that one too. I also tried on wires for zones that I know are working and get similar readings. Like I said...it seems the selonoids are working...as, after I manually get the valves working....( I set the controller to turn them on and then manually turn them on at the selenoid) and then I screw the selenoid back down... the valves will shut off by the controller...just cant seem to get the valves running when it is turned on. The kicker is, it's two different zones in this underground box, (three valves) and neither zone will go on...but they share the same common wire. However, there are other zones on this common wire that are all working. When I tested the wires at the controller (as you suggested) they are all reading about zero ohms. As are the other wires on other zones that are working. Do you have any other advice ???

Unless you had a lighting storm that fried everything, it sounds to me like your not using the multimeter correctly. On Most models, you need to switch the black lead . Pull it out from the VAC testing port and plug it into the Ohm testing port, as well depending on your multimeter, switch it to 200 ohms.

Mitchgo

Supreme Member

Posts: 502

Location: Seattle

6

Friday, April 22nd 2011, 12:14am

Your tests are still proving my theory ( Will be proof if all the electrical testing is done and comes out to what I say it should be, if it's this issue)

That you have a bad wire connection somewhere for this valve box.

Theres enough voltage to sustain the valve to stay on, but not enough in rush current to kick the valve on. Indicating a bad wire connection. The controller is ruled out as a possibility issue because it works for the other zones

Mitchgo

Supreme Member

Posts: 502

Location: Seattle

7

Sunday, April 24th 2011, 1:06pm

Actually, you need to also confirm that the controller is working properly. Check for voltage on all the zones to make sure your getting enough

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