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Sunday, April 1st 2012, 12:46pm

wiring question - moving from ICC to Pro C

I bought the Pro C to replace an ICC. My ICC had two 8 station modules. My connections where such that there was no wire to the P/MV on the power module, only the 'C'. Also there were no wires to the 'C' on either station module. This set up worked without issue before a power surge. I need info on how the wires should hook up for the PRO C. Hooking
up the Pro C, I mapped the wire going to my ICC power module 'C' to the only 'C' on the Pro C. Since I had no P/MV wiring on the ICC, I have nothing there on the Pro C. I then hooked my station wires to the corresponding stations on the Pro C. This does not work - no water. One additional note. All but two of the station wires were in a black sheath. Two of the stations, were each in their individual larger red sheath. Each of these was on a separate station module.
This set up came with the house and I don't know what is in the ground.

Any help / guidance is appreciated. Thanks.

mrfixit

Moderator

Posts: 1,510

Location: USA

2

Sunday, April 1st 2012, 4:20pm

Is it possible there was nothing wrong with the ICC and you still have the same problem as before?

Is the outlet good? Plug something else into it and see. Like a drill. Anything.

Is the water turned on? Try turning on a valve manually at the valve.

Could be a broken ground wire. Resplice the ground wire at the controller.

Maybe you've wired it wrong. The two black wires might be the issue. Might not. They could be ground wires.
They might go to one individual valve.

Are you positive you don't have a master valve?

Maybe you've wired everything correctly. You need to confirm if power is leaving the controller. If so, is there power at the valves? If not, again check the ground wire, at the valves this time.

Did you do any digging recently where you might have cut the wires?

3

Sunday, April 1st 2012, 7:46pm

Thanks for your reply.

It is possible, but not likely the ICC is ok. A close lightening strike took out several other electronics. There is no read out on the ICC. The display is all blank.

Outlet is good. The Pro C has power and shows operation when I set the stations to operate.

We definitely have water (in our house). If there is another valve specific to the irrigation, I'm not aware.

If it is a broken ground, how could I tell. But to my original point, it worked before the lightening. Can / could the lightening damage more than the controller to include the valves?

My wiring my be off. You mentioned the 'two black' wires. I think you meant my red sheath wires. I know they each controlled a separate station. But it is odd that they were outside of the main black sheath.

You mention master valve. Having not put the system in, how can I tell? I do know that there was no wire attached to P/MV on the ICC.

Does power leaving the controller mean the same thing as the controller having power? There has been not recent digging. What is the best way to find the valves.... I've got over 80 sprinkler heads.

mrfixit

Moderator

Posts: 1,510

Location: USA

4

Sunday, April 1st 2012, 9:34pm

When you said power surge, lightning never crossed my mind. Lightning can fry everything including your solenoids.
I don't live in lightning country. I've only seen 1 controller ever that was struck. I'm a tad tired at the moment to reply on the other items.

Wet_Boots

Supreme Member

Posts: 4,102

Location: Metro NYC

5

Monday, April 2nd 2012, 9:11am

Lightning can destroy any part of a sprinkler system, including plastic pipes. Solenoids and outdoor wiring are definitely 'in play'

6

Monday, April 2nd 2012, 9:20am

Brian,
Lightning could very well have fried your system down to the solenoids. I live in lightning country and it will do weird things. Also cost you lots of money.
Before I went any further I'd make sure that the controller was putting out voltage at each station connection in the controller.
Then I'd go to the valve end and check for voltage there. If you don't have a multimeter you will want one.
Your valves should be in valve boxes, usually round with a green lid. If you need to track them you can rent a valve locator. Mark/make note of your valve wires/zone numbers as you go.
Voltage at the controller and none at the valve means broken wires. Voltage at the valve but no activation may mean a fried solenoid. The multimeter can help you test that also. Solenoids are EASY to replace.

If your P/MV was not connected previously you shouldn't need it now.
The two separate wires means either they had more zones than the multistrand could handle or they added 2 zones later. Or two wires were cut and the wiring had to be replaced. Hard to tell from info.

Keep us updated. Be glad to help.

BRIANLBAILEY@MSN.COM

Unregistered

7

Tuesday, April 3rd 2012, 7:06pm

Thanks so much for the insight. I suspect I'll be hiring someone (in the Raleigh, NC area), to find the valves as they are all in ground in unknown locations.

I'll let the forum know the outcome once I do.

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