SPRINKLER TALK FORUM - You Got Questions, We've Got Answers

If your using city water - WHere did you take your psi reading from? If from a spigot , you might have a pressure regulator installed somewhere after your meter that is giving you just 45 psi. To make it alot easier to find out, call your local water dept and ask what static pressure should you be getting at your house.

As for volume reading at that low psi and 1/2' pipe at the spigot can be giving you an untrue reading also.

Look into this first- you might have more than you think to design your system.

Where are you located?

wHAT ABOUT PUMPING FROM THE STREAM DO YOU GUYS THINK IT WOULD BE MORE COST EFFECTIVE TO BUY A PUMP THAN TO PAY THE CITY FOR THEIR WATER? Sorry about the caps? A friend pumped from a pond and it worked great.

The question is weither or not the spigot is before or after the pressure regulator. USUALLY at least one spigot is tapped into the main BEFORE the regulator. That's the one to test the static pressure from.

If you plan on using RainBird equipment, then sending them money to design something for you shouldn't be a waste as you can get the money rebated (as I recall) if you purchase some RainBird equipment.

You will want to tap into the main somewhere before it enters the house (so you don't hear the water running inside when the system is on). As for how close to the meter, that really depends upon the size of the main between the meter and the house. If you have a 1" PVC main between the meter and the house (and you might even if you see copper coming into the basement, there could be a 1" PVC to 3/4" Copper transition outside underground near the house) and a "average" size suburban lot, you will most likely be fine tying anywhere into the main. The only reason to tap into the main close to the meter is to avoid pressure loss in the main between the meter and the tie in spot. Again, if you have a 1" PVC main then being close to the meter isn't much of an issue. But if you have a 3/4" main, then you might want to tie in close to the meter so that you can use 1" for the main for the irrigation system.

HooKoo Explained it all. Don t try to adjust your regulator. You want to tap in before it anyways.
Free Water is always cheaper!

Free water is always the best way to go! Start with a 2HP Sta-Rite or Berkeley Centrifugal Pump, run 2" SCH 40 Well Casing or 100 psi High Density 3408 Poly Pipe from the suction side of the pump down to the water and install a Sure-Flo 2" Self Cleaning Stainer on the end. Absolutely no air can enter the inlet side of the pump. NONE! Support the strainer up off of the bottom of the stream or pond/lake. The closer to the water source the better - 100 feet is a bit much. Size your pipe on the discharge side of the pump starting with 2" and run that to your irrigation site then run 1.25 or 1.5" mainline for your systems. You should be able to safely design your systems at 28-30 gpm/circuit.