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manifold questions

tth

Starting Member

Posts: 1

1

Saturday, May 22nd 2004, 5:51am

manifold questions

I had a few questions for a new manifold design/installation. This is my first attempt and I wanted to try do things correctly. I purchased the dura pre-assembled manifold, PGV-101G valves, PGP rotars and hunter pop ups, and will be using 1" poly.

(1) Are water filters a good idea for residential connections from the main water line? Our water is hard, and from time to time I need to clean off the sediment on the filters for our indoor faucets.
(2) Should I install an inline drain down stream from each of my valves? (This was suggested in a popular mechanics article in 2002)
(3) I had a plumber come out and install and 3/4" RPZ and he left a copper 3/4" female stub below the ground for the manifold connection. What is the best way to dialate from the 3/4" copper to the 1' PVC for the manifold?
(4) Has anyone ever had any problems with leaking after installing the blazing saddle self tap fittings onto poly pipe from the local hardware store versus commericial grade? The salesperson at the sprinkler supply thought there could be a potential problem due to the difference in thickness of the two types of pipe.

Thanks for your assistance! Great forum [:D].

drpete3

Supreme Member

Posts: 376

Location: USA

2

Monday, May 24th 2004, 4:13am

I have used blazing saddles on poly that was purchased from home depot and no prbs.
Thanks,

Pete

BSME

Advanced Member

Posts: 67

3

Monday, May 24th 2004, 8:21am

3)You sound pretty handy... im sure you can solder a 3/4'' elbow to the bottom of that copper and solder a 3/4'' wybow into that elbow.. i may not have the best technical talk but you can then just slide 3/4'' poly pipe on that wybow and tighten it with a couple turn clamps since it's main line... assuming your manifold is threaded you can teflon tape a 3/4'' x 1'' combination reducing elbow and screw that into the manifold and clamp the 3/4'' poly on the fitting... again i know i can't speak clearly in writing but that's how i'd do it

HooKooDooKu

Supreme Member

Posts: 683

4

Monday, May 24th 2004, 8:29am

I don't think a filter (even a 200 mesh) is going to help prevent "MINERAL" build-ups that would be caused by HARD water. But if your hard water ALSO has Sediment, then perhaps a filter is a good idea. Unfortunately, very few people bother with a filter in my area and I found it difficult to find something suitable for installation in a mainline.

Easiest way to go from 3/4" copper to PVC is a 3/4" to 1" male thread adapter.

aquamatic

Advanced Member

Posts: 230

Location: USA

5

Monday, May 24th 2004, 9:18am

If your concerned about your water building rust stains on your house or walkways, You can install an injection system that will dye out the minerals that cause the rusting stains. I believe it's called RustIt or something like it. John Deere Landscape sells the product

I hear that the refills are not cheap!!

aquamatic

Advanced Member

Posts: 230

Location: USA

6

Monday, May 24th 2004, 9:22am

Blazing Saddles--

The only issue I have had is that you cannot properly seat and install one on the slightest curve on the pipe. It causes a slack and they snap open.

Also as far as installing them by hand- I use channel lock pliers to snap the belt closed

drpete3

Supreme Member

Posts: 376

Location: USA

7

Tuesday, May 25th 2004, 8:00am

I use robogrip pliers to get them on.
Thanks,

Pete

wingsaircharter

Active Member

Posts: 7

Location: USA

8

Friday, September 21st 2007, 2:50pm

If you read the directions you can put them on with no tools. I just did 20 today on 1" and 1.25" polu and never used a tool. They went on superbly and save tons of time. Now I just hope they don't ever leak.
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