You are not logged in.

Reply

Dear visitor, welcome to SPRINKLER TALK FORUM - You Got Questions, We've Got Answers. If this is your first visit here, please read the Help. It explains how this page works. You must be registered before you can use all the page's features. Please use the registration form, to register here or read more information about the registration process. If you are already registered, please login here.

Attention: The last reply to this post was 4372 days ago. The thread may already be out of date. Please consider creating a new thread.

Message information
Message
Settings
Automatically converts internet addresses into links by adding [url] and [/url] around them.
Smiley code in your message such as :) is automatically displayed as image.
You can use BBCode to format your message, if this option is enabled.
Security measure

Please enter the letters that are shown in the picture below (without spaces, and upper or lower case can be used).

The last 10 posts

Sunday, April 29th 2012, 9:19am

by rosewater

Thanks, Good Info

Thanks, Wet Boots. I've never really studied soils that much, but do
know they really differ right here in Texas from area to area.
To be
honest, I doubt my front yard would make the cover of "Better Homes
& Gardens" or the like, as there are low places that need filling in
for a perfect lawn & other types of grass horning in on the St
Augustine.
But, it is nice and green, and in much better shape than previous to the drip system being installed.
I'm here to learn from you guys, and appreciate the information. There's a lot more to irrigation period than just water......

Saturday, April 28th 2012, 6:14am

by Wet_Boots

Texas is known for clay soils that have the power to do foundation damage from expansion and contraction. If someone tells me they have great results from subsurface drip, I know they don't have some of the soils I encounter, like moraines left over from the last Ice Age. In soils where water won't move horizontally, subsurface drip won't work.

Saturday, April 28th 2012, 12:26am

by rosewater

Lines, soil, ...

Gator Guy, lines are probably a little closer, like 4', but possibly a little over that . The soil here is sandy topsoil with a lot of clay deeper down, not at all like the soil in Beaumont where I'm from, which was nice black soil.
Wet Boots, how close would the nozzles have to be ? I've never seen any closer than 12"; I guess you could run multi-side-by-side lines to get 6", but that would probably be counterproductive. The best way I can state the type of soil here is that it's sandy with some clay content, with a lot of clay probably 2' down.
Unfortunately, since I was just doing this more or less for grins, but hoping for the best, I honestly didn't even map out the system on paper, although I'm sure of the layout; the side of my home never had much grass, due to a lot of shade and a huge pine next door right on the other side of the fence. Last year I built that side up with some better soil, and planted the grass from the rose garden expansion over there; I added a couple of lines to the drip system that loop through the side yard, and it's looking really good at this time.
Regarding a drought this summer.....I really, really hope not !!! Last year was bad enough !

Friday, April 27th 2012, 9:43pm

by Wet_Boots

Unless the soil is suitable, like clay, subsurface drip is pointless. Emitters will be too widely spaced to not have a pattern show at the surface.

Friday, April 27th 2012, 11:19am

by GatorGuy

"Again Gator Guy, I'm not disputing any members word or experience, or results of any tests, but I can take a photo of the yard, or anyone could drive by and look at it."

Rosewater, don't ever worry about that. Everyone on this site has found something strange, something that should work but didn't, and something that shouldn't work but did. Always looking for new information.


And, having succeeded, you just became a reference on lawn subsurface irrigation.

Pictures would be great for reference. There is an article in the Houston Chronicle today about the possibility of another drought this year. I'm really trying to get people to consider drip in their gardens and shrubs, especially in new installations. Any picture of any drip that shows great success helps.


Sounds like your lines are about 5' apart. Is that correct? Fairly good soil? Sand? Clay?

Friday, April 27th 2012, 11:06am

by rosewater

Striping

Gator Guy, definitely yes, if the amount of water is not carefully controlled. This is just my observation, but if the timer is set for too long a period and the system puts out too much water, there can be light stripes, though not that noticeable. Another plus with this system is the way the grass grows so thick and lush. (Only disadvantage here is mowing is a little more difficult).
I haven't tried hooking my inline fertilizer bottle to the system (really for the roses), but may try it sometime, not that the grass really needs it.
Again Gator Guy, I'm not disputing any members word or experience, or results of any tests, but I can take a photo of the yard, or anyone could drive by and look at it.
The funny thing about it too, I just used a sharp pick and dragged it along the ground in order to create my 'trenches'. The lines are only about 2" deep. I also have an air relief valve and check valve at about the mid point of the system, which is right at the highest point.
Again, I applaud you on your initiative and work to bring a great site such as this online; there's so much information and disinformation on the 'net regarding drip, and a site such as this surely helps with so many experienced and knowledgeable members, plus the opportunity to ask questions, as stupid as some of mine might be :) !

Friday, April 27th 2012, 8:22am

by GatorGuy

Rosewater,
We don't have the problem with moles and gophers here they do in some areas, fortunately.
I'm glad your system works but am a little surprised.
Texas A&M did a test on this type of system for yards not long ago and the results were not satisfactory.
One complaint they had was 'striping' of the grass along the lines.

Does yours come out evenly or can you tell where the lines went?

Thursday, April 26th 2012, 10:08pm

by rosewater

Lawn Subsurface Drip System

I'm new here, and am really glad I found this site. I was looking for the proper way to calculate the water my rose garden system will put out, using 12" spaced, .9gph drip tubing, but what a great site !!
Regarding subsurface drip, I had quite a bit of Netafim tubing (.9gph/12") after I did my rose garden 3 years ago; as stated, I'm totally new here, but my front lawn is approximately 30'x60', and I just ran 6 lines across it and connected them with 2 other long pieces, and used a spare filter, backflow preventer, and pressure valve, and it's worked great ever since it's been installed.
I was actually just doing it for kicks, more or less, as drip was totally new to me then, and our front yard sits out in the hot Texas sun for most of the day; all the pines in the yard have been cut down & there are very few big trees, so there's just no shade at all. Last summer, when it was really dry, my front yard was the only one on our street that wasn't burned to a crisp. Of course, we paid for it too !
Again, I'm not doubting anyone members word or experience on this, I'm just stating the facts of my particular situation. I've also read many times that "you've been warned" regarding moles and gophers eating the line; I do have moles, but for some reason, they don't prefer the brand I'm using. 'Never had a problem with any types of animals. The system just turns on around 2:30am, waters for an hour or so, and turns off. I never even know it's there. I just installed a new system in the rose garden, which was installed the same year as the front yard system, and was very surprised that the drip hose that came out was in really good shape.

Monday, August 22nd 2011, 11:17pm

by Mitchgo

At that point you might as well do overhead sprays cause your return in investment from water savings will take forever with 14 guage wire.. 1000' ++ of wire? insanse

Sunday, August 21st 2011, 2:20pm

by golfirr

Tracer wire is run right beside the pipe. I use a 14 gauge wire, but I would think anything would work. It is used so you can trace the pipe later on if you need to. Say you had to dig and area up, you can now locate the pipe and not put a shove though it.If you watched the video link that mitchgo posted, at the end the guy took a soil probe. What if he put the prob into the pipe? Tracer is just a safety net