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I did more trouble shooting and it turns out the zone wire was bad. I now have two valves connected to the same zone wire and am running them together. Thanks for all the help!!
So as I said before the solenoid is reading 25 ohms but when I re wired the connection I still get nothing. The other two valves in the box work fine. The way it is wired is as follows.
1 ea lead from each valve with the comm (black) wire under one wire nut.
1 lead from each valve sperately connected to each color (red, brown, white)
I am not sure if this is correct but the other two zones work correctly as wired. Could the problem still be the valve?
Sorry for the length of time it took to reply but my wife just had a baby and sprinklers have not been on the list. I checked the leads on the solenoid and the resistance was 25 so it appears to be the wiring. I will repair the wires and post when complete. Thanks for the help!
Use your meter and test from the wires that attach to the selonoid. It's an attempt to rule out the wiring as the problem. If the selonoid reads 25 ohms, then you know with certainty its the wiring. If you still get the 110 ohms, replace the selonoid.
How do I check the resistance of the solenoid?
Those grease tubes are still in use today. I would also check the resistance of the selonoid itself.
So I put a meter on the offending valve and it tested really high. All other valves were in the 25 range and this on tested at 105. I think there is a bad splice. One question. The wires feed into these tube shaped connectors. Are these just really old waterproof connections? If so can I just clip them out and re wire the connection myself?
Broken wire, faulty solenoid, bad splices, and rain sensor are possible items that will prevent valve operation. Resistance testing is how you check for continuity.
What wiring issues am I looking for? Just wires that have become disconnected?
It might be a wiring problem, or a mechanical failure in the valve. Rule out the electrical issues first, then worry about the mechanical issues.