I've heard some casual comments about how a I could use my sprinkler controller, a Hunter Pro-C, to manage a schedule for my low-voltage lighting. Can someone advise me on if this is true and if so, how I can get my controller to control my transformer? Thanks.
I have a low voltage transformer that was in the house when I bought it. It doesn't doesn't have any exterior markings at all, so I'm not able to know the model or wattage rating for the unit by looking at it. Is there any way to determine the watt output of this unit? Thank you.
I'm in the process of installation, and I've discovered that the static pressure just past my double-check valve on the sprinker side is 80 PSI, so I'm concerned about water hammer. When my sprinkler valves shut off, how far back would the shock travel? I assume that it would go at least as far back as the double check valve. I know that this isn't good for my double check valve, but would it contain the surge? Or would it pass the surge through to my interior plumbing?
Thanks for your reply, MrFixit. The "repair job" you see is a professional plumber (from Jim Dandy Plumbing in the Seattle area) teeing of from my galvanized steel line so that I can feed my sprinkler system. I'm open to educating myself on sweating copper, and at this point, it would help me if someone would walk me through the various fittings that I'll need to lay the new pipe from the starting point(http://snice.net/pipe/startpoint.jpg) to the ending point (http://snice.net/pipe/endpoint.jpg...
During the course of trying to tee off my main water supply pipe (to feed a new sprinkler system), I've encountered the need to replace my old 3/4" galvanized steel supply pipe with 1" copper pipe. I've received quotes from three plumbers ranging from $700 to $1000, so I'm trying to figure out whether it's the type of project that a plumbing newbie can handle. I'm nervous about screwing it up and being without water for several days. I have a photo illustration of the project the project on my w...
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by ArrakeenIrrigator</i> The Pro-Spray schematic illustrates the use of a swing joint to control the depth of the installation. In scenarios where you don't need a swing joint, can you just tee off of your lateral to a riser and screw right into the sprinkler head? <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote"> The main situa...
Based on recommendations that I've read here, I'm planning on going with Hunter Pro-Spray bodies. I've got a couple questions about sprinkler body height and installation. <ul> <li>I see that these sprinkler bodies are offered in different heights. For my small (350 sq. ft.), flat lawn with no obstructions, what is the recommended pop-up height? My biggest radius is 10', and most are smaller.</li> <li>The Pro-Spray schematic illustrates the use of a swing joint to control the depth of the instal...
Thanks for the reply. From your response, I gather that: <ul> <li>A double-check valve or a LPZ unit that is specified as 1" will work with my 1-1/4 supply pipe</li> <li>I have to buy the appropriate size unit based on flow.</li> </ul> Is there a forumla for verifying that the capacity of the unit is sufficient for my needs?
I'm teeing off of my home's supply pipe with 1-1/4" Sched 40 PVC. I'm trying to find the right backflow device for my needs. First, sizing. None of the backflow devices seem to be sized at 1-1/4". What size of device would be suitable for my situation? Also, my understanding was that double-check valves could be buried in a valve box underground. The ones that I looked at had a requirement that they be installed at least a foot above the surface. Is there a difference between underground/above g...
