The pipe I think your supplier is referring to is Class 200 PVC. Although not as strong as Sched 40, it is PLENTY strong to handle the 85 PSI I run through my system. The advantage to Class 200 is it is the same Outer Diameter as Sched 40 but a larger inside diameter. You get more GPM out of Class 200 while retaining most of the strength of Sched 40.
The pipe I think your supplier is referring to is Class 200 PVC. Although not as strong as Sched 40, it is PLENTY strong to handle the 85 PSI I run through my system. The advantage to Class 200 is it is the same Outer Diameter as Sched 40 but a larger inside diameter. You get more GPM out of Class 200 while retaining most of the strength of Sched 40.
I don't know what to say on this one. What would be the difference between injecting fertilizer concentrate into the sprinkler system only to have a small amount backflow into the lake and only irrigating with lake water but drop spreading granular fertilizer which will leech into the lake anyway with the irrigation water you spray on it?
Go to the Rainbird site http://www.rainbird.com/pdf/turf/ASVF_Manual.pdf You will find that Rainbird says "Do not use this anti-siphon valve as a mainline backflow device nor as a master valve."
You NEED a backflow prevention device. An anti-siphon control valve is NOT an acceptable substitute for a BFP device. The choice of devices is the subject of much controversy and widely varying local code requirements. Go to www.irrigationtutorial.com and read to your heart's content. Mr. Stryker makes pretty compelling arguments for the required use of such devices. I was a novice when I installed my system and I spent hours on his site. I followed all of his suggestions and my system turned ou...
Unless rise or drop from you heads is an overriding concern, bury it only as far down as you can reach and easily service the device.
The only thing you are trying to prevent is ditch water and effluent from entering your well supply or into your household drinking water....no matter what the combinations are. So all you have to do is install the proper backflow device, dictated by local codes, or your preference (if in doubt RP (reduced pressure backflow preventer)devices are the best...also about $200 Ouch!)PAST the point where your well water line supplies your house. Then, effluent cannot enter either water supply under an...
An anti-siphon control valve is NOT an aceptable substitute for a backflow preventing device. All control valves will leak eventually. Not if...when. The lowest protection device...a double check preventer is about $80.00. Well worth the peace of mind. IF you use no device at all, even with antisiphon valves, you risk allowing effluent into your household water supply. The consequences of that can be dire.....not to mention expensive.
