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The issue of having a 85 year old house with a galvanized/lead service line should have been addressed by the contractor before any sprinkler system was put in. That should have raised concerns right away. On a residential project the servive line size, type of pipe, age and length are very critical to a working design. Now , your working backwards to try and get this to work properly. As galvanized pipe ages it corrodes from within and the interior dimension reduces greatly especially after 85 ...
You are going to be hard pressed to have any more than 25-28 psi at the heads.. Buy the time you figure your pressure losses through the service line from the street, the meter, any check valves, backflow device, valves, mainline, lateral lines, fittings, elevation, it's all going to add up. Of course, your losses are going to be based on how much flow ( gpm) you have. Do your math carefully on this one.
I would concur with Central in that the flow controls main function limits the opening movement of the diaphragm. This smaller opening creates a smaller flow as well as a small decrease in pressure downstream. The force on the upper part of the diaphragm is a function of the area only and has no bearing on the opening size of the of the diaphragm. ( pressure= force(lb) / area(in sq). That being said, some valves need more of a pressure loss through them to operate properly then others. and at 3g...
If you have eliminated any electrical problem and the zone runs with the bleed screw open but shuts off as soon as you close the bleed there is a good chance that the exhaust port is blocked. To check, shut main water off. take solenoid off of the valve. There will be a small exhaust port there. Take a small piece of 18 guage irrigation wire and pass it through this port, it should pass through freely. If you feel resistance it may be blocked by a small piece of sand/dirt. If you have difficulty...
Ensure that the small passageway from the solenoid area is open both in the upper valve bonnet and also the lower body of the valve. It must be open all the way through so that the water exhausts out. If not,it will not open.
Many irrigation manuals and books have chapters on valve operation. Weathermatic's Turf Irrigation Manual is a good source for information on valve operation especially their reverse flow type of valve. You could also check with the National Irrigation Association website and check through their library of books etc. The basic principals of valve operation are the same for most all valves. The bottom of the valve , where the source water is, is separated from the upper chamber by a rubber diaphr...
Use your ohm meter and test for resistance in each valve. disconnect each zone wire from the controller along with the common and read each valves resistance. This should tell you something.
On Irritrol controllers "fus" generally means you have a shorted solenoid and or a bad splice connection. The controller will read on the display something like "fus1" or "fus2" indicating which zone the problem is on. Try resetting the controller to remove the "fus " signal on the display, then set each zone for 1 minute and start the program. When it comes to the bad zone it will show "fus". The better way is to just put a ohm meter on each zone wire and check for resistance. Normal is around ...
No way should a RPA assy be put in an irrigation box below grade. Besides the possibility of flooding the box and submerging the device,there certainly would be a difficulty in testing and making repairs. No one is going to set up some elaborate drainage system within a valve box to allow for its relief valve opening. New Jersey has very specific regulations on the installation of sprinkler systems and I too am doubtful that your getting good info on what is an appropriate backflow device. High ...
Seems to me you should look at what is causing the backflow device to dump, rather than just replace it with one that would not readily show a pressure loss problem in its operation. Even if you put the DCVA in, the problem is still there and will just show up elsewhere , maybe in a different fashion. Sufficient information on your set up has not been given to really diagnose this problem. Are you on a well or city water? Are you watering steep slopes ? There are lots of possibilities. For every...
Go to www.irrigation.org/certification. All you need to know will be there.
Funny pipe was not intended for use as a drip zone supply line. if he is a professional contractor he would be using the tubing that is made by various companies for a drip supply as you described. the cost per 100' feet of this tubing is very minimal. Besides, I doubt that the barb fittings that are used for the "spaghetti" tubing will fit correctly in the funny pipe as its wall is so much thicker than the tubing normally used for this application. Just do it right and be done with it! '
A bucket test is a guide at best in determining the amount of water you can run. Your flow design (gpm) should be based on how much pressure you need to operate the heads for the worst case zone. Your bucket test is water flow in a open flow condition. You were measuring an approximate flow not taking into account the pressure. If you were to attach a pressure guage somewhere in the piping as you were doing the bucket test you would probably see a significant drop in the operating pressure for t...
The length of service line, in your case, 1" copper from the city main to the meter must be included in your pressure loss calculations. You never really said how long that pipe is in your previous posts. Don't forget any elevation changes.
The meter size is certainly something you have to consider in this design. hi.todd is correct that you may be taxing that meter too much if you go beyond approx 13gpm. Usually with a 1" service you have at least a 3/4" meter installed. That would help in giving you more safe flow. But just as important, as Central said, you need to know your static pressure so you know how much pressure you can safely loose due to friction losses and still have enough to operate the sprinklers. As flow increases...
Ditto Centrals rec. Flo Pro's were one of Toro's worst valve lines. We never installed them ourselves, but came across them in service calls and they were always problematic. Best thing you can do is change the complete valve out. The Irritol 2400 series has been around for many years and is very reliable.
Designing a sprinkler system off of a well supply vs city water is very different. Making assumptions on how much water you can run can get you in trouble. I'll give you some things that you need to verify before you begin any installation. 1. Is the well itself capable of supporting a sprinkler system that may run for 3-4 hrs. a day? 2. What size , HP, is the existing pump and what is its GPM rating. You can not run 13 GPM if the pump is rated at 5 GPM. 3. What is the static level of the well, ...
I have to agree with the other posts. 40 PSI static is very low for a sprinkler system. Most rotary sprinkler heads operate at their optimum at the 45-50 psi range. You're starting out with 42 PSI. By the time you figure all your pressure losses in the service line, meter, backflow device, valves, piping, elevation, etc. etc. you could very well be operating at best in the low 30's but likley in the 20's. You might want to inquire with the three contractors what they figure the pressure is going...
In your case, I believe that controller has what they call "stacking" capability. If the run time overlaps with the second start time, the controller will finish the first cycle before beginning the second start time. the second start time will begin immediately thereafter.So your second start time will end later than expected.
First check the voltage at the controller terminals for each zone. Should be around 27- volts AC. That will tell you if you have juice coming out of the controller. Not too familiar with the SRC, but as far as the rain sensor goes, when you disconnect the wires from the rain sensor terminals, I believe you will still have to run a jumper wire across those two terminals or insert a jumper clip that comes with the controller.
