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First off: I'm an enthusiastic amateur. (I.e. If you must, please drop me in it gently.) Hunter Node-BT field controllers have a Program A, B & C. Up until yesterday, I've never needed to know the ways in which they inter-acted or worked. (Yes, I've patiently pored over the manual.) What I want to achieve is a different start time for the same valve on Mo/We/Fri to the other days - Sa/Su/Tu/Th. So I've set Program A for 1505 (3.05pm) start time on Mo/We/Fri; then Program B for a start time of 13...
An ancient thread revived. I seem to have a similar problem, even though you will have long since solved yours. In my case, I suspect the solenoid, rather than the valve, as the manual lever makes all sprinklers work. Water can be heard to run if the solenoid is actuated, but only what sounds like a trickle. And not enough to make the sprinklers function as they should. I wonder if the solenoid is a replaceable item? If it's a cheapie, as Wet Boots surmises, the prospects are unlikely to be good...
Rather than fiddle around, I decided to erase Program B and then re-install it. I then tried the Program Cycle run, and the fence top rotors were off. When the cycle had finished, I tried a Single Station watering that was the problem when I tried yesterday. Again the fence top rotors were off. So it does look like a software-type issue was implicated. [Ctrl] + [Alt] + [Delete] was the way! Obviously, the feeble memory recall was even more feeble than I thought.
I had planned to try a manual "Program Cycle" [page 16] (of program B) to see what happens. I will also turn off the PMV on Programs C & D, and run them manually, to see the effect. Somewhere in my enfeebled memory, I have the idea that I found a tweak that over-rode the PMV setting in the Station Times programming. I'll have a deliberate and careful re-read of the manual to see if that prompts any relevant recall.
If money was no object, that would be a great idea. Despite all the inception woes, it is working quite well. The controller puzzle arose as a result of some tweaking of the zone runs times, rather than another patch on an already chequered set up. I need to take lots of care with tweaking, as there's now a robot lawn mower on the job, 17 hours-a-day. I don't think the pop-ups would like being nudged by the mower.
A year or two back, when I installed the irrigation system here, juggling aspects of a 'grew-like-topsy' irrigation reticulation arrangement meant that may aspects were a compromise. One consequence of that was to put one zone/station on the PMV terminal of the controller. That station/zone has 5 rotors, atop a row of fence posts, using a very low water volume. Now I'm doing a few refinements and there's something I can't fathom out from the Irritrol manual, when compared with what I see actuall...
I don't need to blow out any water, as we only get grass frosts here; no ground freeze. But what of the turf mat/thatch? The grass keeps growing in winter here. One helluva lot slower than in summer, but growing nonetheless. Is it possible that a mat/thatch will intertwine over the rotor heads during the months when irrigation is not necessary and cause problems in the Spring/Summer, when irrigation again becomes necessary? Is it prudent to stand at the controller once-a-month (say) and do a man...
Well, this is what it looks like, now: Clicking the little boxes to the right shows a slightly larger pic. The woodlot at the back, the apple orchard in front of it, and another to the right (off pic) are all benefiting from more regular, automated watering. As are madam's gardens. I've even managed 6 days away without any problems occurring. Before that, the new (circa 65psi) higher system pressure caused three pipe ruptures. So I programmed the the PMV electronic timer to activate the solenoid...
Thanks for the added comments. Following your advice, the below-mentioned tactic will mean only DC latching relays will be affected by no water supply. Quoted from "Mitchgo" My question is what event does the 2" ball valve need to be shut off for if you have a master valve? I've ended up with something that can be fairly described as a mish-mash. So be it. I now need to work with what I've got, viz. Pump controller (time switch) SVC x 3 Galcon tap timer x 2 Irritrol controller There is no way th...
Quoted from "mrfixit" OK. I wont be able to give you any more advice on this. I don't know the first thing about your pump and what will happen when it tries to run but you have a shut off valve on the line. Sounds like it might burn up to me. The pump pressurises a tank, so switches on and off, automatically. There is a solenoid valve and a ball valve in the line that connects the tank to the irrigation line. When the solenoid valve opens, water can flow to the field. But if the ball valve is ...
Quoted from "mrfixit" You have me a little bit confused here. If you're using the SVCs in the field, what's controlling the master valve? A separate electronic timer in the pump shed. The system is a hybrid. One with a few design flaws. (Wet Boots is not so charitable!) The pump supplies domestic water via a very large pressure tank, with water fed to five households. The pump shed timer simply opens the solenoid valve to the irrigation system. Brief, initial water flow is from the pressure tan...
Right. In most cases, I can factor in a decent break between on and off, by a major re-arrangement of the station/zone sequences. But in one valve, only the (minimum) five minute segment could be allowed in the program 1 end and program 2 start time setting of the SVC-100. As fortune would have it, I've been beavering away at getting this all into sufficient order so that I could go away for five days, without new grass (seeded 3 weeks ago) getting burnt off. The arrangement is unduly complex (f...
After reading and re-reading the manual, I'm left unsure if start time stacking works on single station valves? On page 10 on the manual, mention is made of stacking for multiple valves - not one valve. The manual declares that the maximum run time for the SVC-100 is 4 hours. Can I set two start times on a single station SVC, four hours apart, with a run time of four hours, in order to get an aggregate run time of 8 hours? Anyone have any experience with this?
The 1 hour figure was for illustrative purposes only. Zone 7 needs to run for whatever duration is the aggregate total time of all the other zones. Dan 2001 micro sprinklers @ 70 lph ea , covering long strips of garden, under big and thirsty trees. By the time a few others are reckoned, about 1000 lph for zone 7, give or take a bit. Those micro sprinklers seem quite tolerant of pressure fluctuations, too. It's looking like running another controller might be the most workable solution. The insta...
AFAIK, already at the top of the range. Evenness of precipitation across the installation may also be a factor. Plus it makes sense to add in the extra zones, now that there's more water than the designer thought would be available.
I had a system put in by an installer. But the pump delivers more than he anticipated! I think he 'allowed' for more losses and a bigger margin-for-error than proved necessary. That's brought on some interesting consequences. So I have a question about controllers. The installed system uses a Hunter geared sprinklers and a Pro-C controller. As far as I can tell, the controller can't switch more than one station, unless wired in common. To 'make use' of the surplus water capacity, (to keep the pu...
It was the sprinkler head performance that my question was aimed at. I'm familiar with the supply pressure options of the existing system. The present water use devices are optimum at 2 bar. Or close: a little higher is better than a little lower, generally. Significantly higher pressures give more misting and 'atomization' with concomitant loss to wind drift - impact sprinklers being the worst affected. The same supply is used for five household's domestic supply, so much below two bars can be ...
Quoted from "Mitchgo" You just need an adequate amount of water pressure and supply. With out it, they don't work well at all. OK - thanks. Their tolerance for pressure/flow drop is poor. In your experience, presuming good volume/ flow, what's optimum? 2 or 3 bar? (Or higher?)
Aside from the water conservation angle, what's the big difference between a rotor and a rotator? Gears? What's the evenness of precipitation across the radius for rotors versus MPs? Does a rotor use more volume & require higher pressure for a given radius than a rotator? Is water use reduction the only benefit difference between the two? The property already has movable sprinkler stands with 2.8 & 4 mm nozzle-size sprinklers. (what you call impact) They're Naan 415S and can sector. They get use...
Uncertainty; fewer sprinklers; lack-of-knowledge; ignorance; [mis-]perceived simplicity? All of those and more? This is a rural situation. "Overspray" is a non-issue. I.e. no need to fit nicely within a pattern determined by paths, fences, side- walks, neighbours, etc. There are grape vines growing along the front of the deck, which have their own trickle system.
