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I've got a valve box that houses those three zones, so i have access to them. Tried playing with the valve flow control a little as well yesterday but still no pressure going to the the sprinkler heads. I've got the flow control set about midway. Also, I have some older rainbird valve models without the anti-siphon. One zone has a Hunter valve. give me any pointers that i could check as well, thanks. Quoted from "hi.todd" It could be your Flow Control, on the valves if they have a flow control. ...
Ok guys, Took another look at the irrigation today while had some sunlight left. Found that when running zone 3, the sprinklers bubble like not enough pressure in the system. Took a look around and sure enough found that there is a leak in the ground. Fitting possibly blew apart. Will repair that end. Also, did a test by disconnecting all valves and connected my manual flusher that connects to the valve stem coming from the pump, low and behold looks like old faithful erupting with water once i ...
Hey guys, Long time i haven't been on the forum. Lots of nice changes since i've been here last. Anyway, lately been having issues with my irrigation. The pump just sounds off as usual and i'm getting what seems to be good pressure but it never starts up any of the zones even in 'manual' mode anymore (i start the pump manually from the relay as a test and turn on one valve manually as well). Zone 1 and Zone 2, nothing comes out of any sprinkler heads. However, zone 3 shows promise and almost lif...
Hey thanks Pete. I got one more question. If my common wire is all tied up in my current valve box. How do I expand that to the second valve box or do I run one of the unused wires as a second common wire for the second box? I do have space for one more common wire on the controller as far as I can remember. Let me know, thanks again -Dwight
I have a pump start relay wired from my controller to my pump and I feel it's a great setup done by my electrician. It even has a safety switch by the pump itself that I can turn the pump off in addition to the timer. However, I'm very interested in the wiring done for this. Does anyone have any good resources out there on where I could read about installing a pump relay with an additional kill switch? If so, please provide it. Thanks alot.
I have three working zones at the moment and a manifold that has outlets for four (4) Valves. I have three (3) working valves (zones) at the moment and one spare outlet from manifold capped off that can accomodate 1 more zone. The problem is that I need to add possibly four (4) more zones in the near future and there is no more space in the valve box for manifold expansion. My electrical timer wires are also pulled to this valve box and the unused wiring is taped off at the current time. How do...
Ok, the wiring seems to be correct from my post above. The reason why the sensor didn't illuminate red (turn off) while raining was because it needed to be adjusted a little more under my roof eave to catch any precipitation. Hopefully, this may help anone else out that is wiring up the wireless sensor.
So i've got this nifty little sensor that i've already mounted and just need to wire up the transmitter box to my Orbit controller. I know the two yellow wire go to my 24 v source on controller, but where does the blue and white wires go. I've read about open loop and closed loop sensor installs for some controllers, but don't think my controller offers any of those options. I've also got a pump relay wired up on my controller. **Update**. Ok, so i fiddled with the wiring last night here's what ...
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by HooKooDooKu</i> <br />The larger the pipe, the less pressure you lose, but the more it costs. The only reason to ever telescope is to save money. But pressure loss is a function of both pipe size AND flow rate (gpm). Without a complex computer program, it's something of an art form to determine what size pipe to use where. But for starters, you need to...
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by drpete3</i> <br />I am no expert but I would think the best situation would to use the 1.25 pipe all the way then use funny pipe for the last foot prior to the head because you loose more pressure the longer the run and that phenomonon is amplified with smaller diameter pipe. Correct? Or am I missing somthing? <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockq...
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by HooKooDooKu</i> <br /><blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">My longest runs will be at least 200' i'm sure. Should I telescope to my 2nd manifold from 1 1/4" to 1" pipe if runs become longer than 100' or how would you guys do it? <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></bloc...
first off, let me say thanks to those that helped me get my irrigation system off the ground and working properly for my two front yard zones. What i would like to do now is expand into the three other areas of my yard (two sides and backyard). For the backyard, should I just put another manifold in my backyard and run a 1 1/4" mainline to it (from my first manifold in the front yard) and be able to place other valves for the backyard in this manifold box? The first manifold box has space for li...
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by waterpilot</i> <br />SamIV, Do you have an updated address for FX Luminaire? The link you put in is no longer a valid address. Thanks <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote"> The address is valid, SamIV has a period (.) in the link. Take it out if you directly clicking on it or type www.fxl.com into your browser.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by drpete3</i> <br />I am happy to hear eveything is fine. I too am not a professional but like to chat and give my opinion now and then. How about a summary of your system? <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote"> The system is running off a shallow well of mostly fresh water and putting out about 30 GPM according to m...
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by bobw</i> <br />Your best bet is to use a voltmeter at both the controller and the valve. Check at the controller end first to ensure that you are putting out some voltage (i.e. the controller is working properly, you have programmed it correctly). If this is good, go back to your valve and take off the grease caps and disconnect the wires. Test the vol...
There's no valve experts here? I could really use the help guys
I'm about 95% done with my irrigation install and my valves are now frustrating me. I can turn on my pump via the controller, but no water is going through the electric valves which makes me think something may be wrong. I've tracked all wires successfully with a wire tracker and wired everything properly to the controller and then used grease caps for the connections at the valves. I can open a zone manually and start the pump from the controller and the zone waters fine. I had an assistant act...
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by aquamatic</i> <br />Really no need to unless your well is also being used for potable water in your home <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote"> Should I go ahead and uninstall it then? It's actually already installed.
I've got a Myers 1.5 hp centrifugal pump for a 21 ft. well. Seems to work descent.
Will it be worth it to keep my PVB that I have connected after my well pump for backflow. I just want to be certain that it won't rob me of too much precious pressure needed to water my zones properly. Also, how did you guys with well pumps test your installation manually for your zones? I'm making about 40-49 psi according to my gauge and flowing from valves to lateral pipes that are 1 1/4" (I should have good flow). I'm planning to try and get a wet test started tomorrow as well. Just want to ...
