Took the easy way out ( this time ) and ordered PGV's. I intend to leave the old SRV valve bodies glued in and swap out the old SRV tops with PGV tops with flow control. Also ordered 100 mesh ss filter to install at the front of the run. If I have any problems ( beyond replacing a diaphragm here and there ) in a couple of years I'll cut them out and go with a different brand, either DV's or 2400's. Thanks for everyone's opinions. I'll check back in later and let you know how the spring start-up ...
I'm sold on the 100 mesh filter, still mulling which valve to go with. Easiest to do is put the PGV w/ flow control heads on the original SRV valve body, but I'm giving the Irritrol 2400's a close look. Thanks again to everyone for their input.
Looks like the Toro EZ Flo and the Irritrol 2400 take the exact same diaphragm, correct? Also, the Irritrol is listed with flow control as an option --- 2400 TF, with FNPT. My old valves are 1" so any new ones will be 1" as well. I may go with flow control only because my overall system was designed around my pitiful 3 gpm well output which is at the low end of all of the specs. It's been a challenge for it to keep up in the heat of Kansas summers but it will as long as all of the parts are work...
Thank you Central Irrigation for your comments. If I decide to replace the valves, do you have a couple of recommendations for me to look at? I've seen some good comments on the Irritrols and either the RainBird DV or PGA, but what would you suggest at $20 to $30 per valve for my max flow rate system at 3 gpm? Thanks.
Quoted from "Central Irrigation" No, it does not add pressure to the spring. In fact it actually does the opposite. The flow control actually makes contact directly to the diaphragm, not through the spring. A flow control only limits how far a diaphragm can open, thus controlling how much water can can flow through the valve. There is a case that could be made that if using a flow control, the diaphragm would have less distance to travel in order to close. However, the diaphragm will only open ...
Quoted from "Wet_Boots" Flow-control valves are wanted here. Also, filtration should always be employed on well water. It isn't that every well gives damaging amounts of particles and sediment, it's that the hassles and expense of cleaning things up, after the fact, are far beyond what it costs to filter the water in the first place. Is there a pressure tank in the well-water supply? Will flow control adjustment help the diaphragms to close ( by putting a little more pressure on the diaphragm s...
Quoted from "Central Irrigation" You should save your money, and instead, install a 100 mesh inline filter to your sprinkler supply line. That shale you referred to is the sole reason your valves are failing. Edit: It is possible that your systems dynamic pressure is too low to operate the valves effectively. I wpuld say, based on your numbers, you should check for any and all leaks. PGP heads are notorious for leaking while operating, and can rob a system of critical pressure. Personally, sinc...
The "slight hint of shale" I referred to is a very slight "slimy" film, not bits and pieces of shale. I have pulled the pump a couple of times and each time the inlet screen on the pump has been very clean. You think the "film" is clogging the holes in the diaphragm not allowing the valve to close? Would flow control take care of the non-closing valve? If I try the strainer route do you have a particular compact model in mind? Thanks.
I have a ten year-old Hunter lawn sprinkler system and it worked fine for about two years. Since then its been a steady repair schedule ( every spring clean or replace dirty diaphragms, flush the valve, reassemble ). The contractor put in low-end Hunter parts --- 1" SRV valves and PGP heads. I've been systematically replacing the PGP's with Orbit Voyager II's and have yet to have a problem with any of the Orbits which I can pick up at any big box store. I'm very much a DIY'er and understand the ...
