You are not logged in.

Dear visitor, welcome to SPRINKLER TALK FORUM - You Got Questions, We've Got Answers. If this is your first visit here, please read the Help. It explains how this page works. You must be registered before you can use all the page's features. Please use the registration form, to register here or read more information about the registration process. If you are already registered, please login here.

hi.todd

Supreme Member

Posts: 417

Location: Houston, Texas

11

Tuesday, August 3rd 2010, 11:14pm

Yeah you are probably right.
It sounds like a good idea.

Good Luck :thumbsup: :thumbsup:
:thumbup: :thumbsup:

Wet_Boots

Supreme Member

Posts: 4,102

Location: Metro NYC

12

Wednesday, August 4th 2010, 8:20am

The ever-so-slight problem with that page is that it suggests placing a check valve in the house supply without first installing an expansion tank on the water heater. If you do install such a check valve, and there is no expansion tank, the water heater will do its job of heating water, and since heated water expands, the increased pressure can burst the plumbing.

-

By the way, if you think about it, every home with an expansion tank in their plumbing, and no check valves, might be a likely candidate to create pipe banging when a sprinkler zone turns on. And yet, this isn't happening, and why? Because a properly designed sprinkler system doesn't have excess flows that create the pipe-banging problems.

SNG

New Member

13

Wednesday, August 4th 2010, 8:00pm

I believe I have fixed the problem. :D



And the solution could not have been simpler. I started thinking that this all started happening a year and a half ago, when our PRV stopped working, and I had a plumber replace it. Today I put a gauge on our hose bib, and saw that the house pressure was 80 psi (Only a little lower than the incoming 90-100). I think he adjusted it so that we'd have a lot of house pressure without it being so high as to cause water hammer. I got thinking about the theory that the fast water/instantaneous low pressure in the starting-up sprinkler line was drawing water from both sides of the tee, so I adjusted the PRV so that the house pressure is 60 psi.



I then tested the sprinklers. No more thumping. I can't believe it was such an easy fix.



Thanks for your help - trying to troubleshoot this one was not fun....

jhpkmr

Unregistered

14

Friday, May 25th 2012, 2:12pm

You saved me $250

I found your thread after googling my pipe thumping. I had the same exact problem which started after I finished the basement. I had a plummer state he would place a special valve outside my house with the sprinkler that would have to be removed every winter that SHOULD fix the problem. (Total price of $250)
After reading your fix, I remembered that the whole house valve was not completely opened when I first shut off the water to plumb the basement. When I finished plumbing, I completely opened the valve as I had always been taught.
After reading this, I turned down the main water supply and also solved the problem.
Thanks SOOO much!. :D :P :thumbsup:

15

Friday, May 25th 2012, 2:22pm

Glad we could help.
Have a good weekend.

Don747

Unregistered

16

Tuesday, September 10th 2013, 7:03pm

RE: You saved me $250

Worked for me, too.

Thank you...

I found your thread after googling my pipe thumping. I had the same exact problem which started after I finished the basement. I had a plummer state he would place a special valve outside my house with the sprinkler that would have to be removed every winter that SHOULD fix the problem. (Total price of $250)
After reading your fix, I remembered that the whole house valve was not completely opened when I first shut off the water to plumb the basement. When I finished plumbing, I completely opened the valve as I had always been taught.
After reading this, I turned down the main water supply and also solved the problem.
Thanks SOOO much!. :D :P :thumbsup:

Rate this thread