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Get water to my cul-de-sac

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WeekendWarior

New Member

Posts: 3

Location: Massachusetts

1

Wednesday, August 24th 2011, 10:00pm

Get water to my cul-de-sac

I’m new to this forum and would appreciate any advice that would help me accomplish this project. Let me first start by saying I am a pretty particular guy. I’m really into my lawn and yard and my neighbors probably think I’m nuts!!

Last year the cul-de-sac on my street was driving me crazy. The weeds were 4’ high for 5 years and I couldn’t stand looking at it anymore. So my 11 year old son (a chip of the old block!) and I decided we wanted to try to turn it into a thick lush lawn. We cut the weeds down last September, thatched it out hard and seeded it the best we could. We have since kept up with it, mowing twice a week, fertilizing and liming regularly. We’ve got pretty good results but there is quite a bit rye and creeping bent grass and very poor soil. So we want to start from scratch and bring in some good loam. We live in Massachusetts and are good for one or two extended heat waves each summer so watering is becoming an issue too. We want to try to irrigate as well so we don’t have to lug 200’ of hose attached to our outdoor faucet and run manual sprinklers at low pressure. The problem is I can’t run pipe under the road from my house.

Here’s what I’d like to do: I have a Hunter Pro-C system for my lawn with 5 zones. I was hoping to add a zone for the specific purpose of installing a remote faucet that I could locate at the front of my property into a small hidden valve box. That faucet would be a 120’ run from the valve box for my Hunter System. I would also install 1 or two zones in the cul-de-sac (3,700sq’) and run each zone back to a hidden valve box within the cul-de-sac. I would then install some type of quick connect in each valve boxes and connect a garden hose from the remote faucet on my property to the valve box in the cul-de-sac when I wanted to water. The distance between those two boxes is 100’. I’ve been told I could get a remote control valve system for the cul-de-sac which seems to make sense. My Hunter System zones are run with 1' poly pipe and I have 1' pipe from City water and the pressure for each existing zone is great. I’m just not sure if 1. You can install a remote faucet to a sprinkler system and 2. If there would be enough pressure to run the zones in the cul-de-sac. Sorry this is kind of long. I just wanted to be sure I gave enough details.

Thanks!

Mitchgo

Supreme Member

Posts: 502

Location: Seattle

2

Wednesday, August 24th 2011, 10:40pm

Do you mean Cul De Sac Island?

I give you props for doing what your doing.. I mow my neighbors lawn everytime I mow mine because the house is abandoned and I don't want it looking bad.


If this was me and I was in your shoes. I would actually go to all of the homeowners on the cul de sac and try and start a privatized Homeowners Association . That way homeowner dues can be collected in order to manage the island. May or may not work? Or at least get a couple people involved willing to pitch in on the cost

To go completely professional you could have the city install a water meter for the cul de sac ( of course this is spendy though) and then use battery operated valves for your zones. Bringing power in for a controller doesn't usually justify the cost compared to battery op's.

To go your way.. That works too- tap into your main line- install a hose bib ( typically on a post) run a hose from the hose bib to a connection you can connect to into the valves ( It doesn't need to be 2 connections just 1 into the main prior to the pipes.

I would suggest to modify it up some .. If it was me I would extend the Main line as close as possible to the cul de sac. Install a Jumbo irrigation box and setup a 100' 1" garden hose inside the box- then when I want to water I just pull it out and connect it to the cul de sac.. Using a 1" garden hose will help reduce the friction loss and help support the zones at the cul de sac.

Unfortunately there isn't any kind of remote control valve system for battery operated valves. You would have to probably turn them on manually or have it setup to come on automatically after you hook up the hose. You could set up a wire bundle inside the valve box too. Rig it up so when you carry the hose over you carry the wire over and connect to the wires at the valves ( oh god am I really thinking about that orbit jack connector device???) lol!!!!.... then use your controller to run the valves

WeekendWarior

New Member

Posts: 3

Location: Massachusetts

3

Wednesday, August 24th 2011, 11:24pm

Yes it's an Island

We think a like that's for sure....As crazy as my neighbors think I am they are very appreciative of the work my son and I have put into this project. I have approached most of them and will approach all of them before we move forward about dividing the cost by however many are willing. My family will contribute the labor, continued fertilizer, lime etc and water. That being said most have agreed to an annual fee of some sort to offset our cost for these items.

I think the permanent water source in the cul de sac is out because the neighbors don’t want to form a formal association and if people back out or move one could get stuck with the bill. That’s part of the reason for not cutting the pavement and tying directly into my system because if I ever move the new owners may not want to get involved.

So what you’re saying is run the new bib from the main water line not an additional zone to my Hunter System? I suppose that could work but I would probably need to hire a plumber as I’m not sure how to tie into the main.

I’ve contemplated the exact idea you mentioned about installing a large box with a 100’ hose stored inside. It would be much more convenient. I will probably do that.

I spoke to Hunter yesterday and the do have a remote controlled battery operated product. It looks pretty cool. http://www.hunterindustries.com/Products/Controllers/wvsintro.html
Thanks for your help and reply.

Mitchgo

Supreme Member

Posts: 502

Location: Seattle

4

Thursday, August 25th 2011, 12:46am

I re-read your post about using new additional valve for your hose bib. ( I thought the main line thing was what you suggested) That works, but it's more work and gives you more steps to do in the long run ( It's actually harder to do this then to extend your main line out)

Personally I don't really like the valve for the hose bib- it's really just another step you have to do ( Go to the controller to turn on the hose bib- then walk back- bah) Today I dealt with new system tune up that had 3 dedicated zones to individual hose bibs around there 2 acre lot..

I recommend to just tap into the main line of the irrigation system and extend it out. Get a irrigation pro in instead of a plumber because plumbers don't know much about sprinkler systems. Inside the large box you could install a ball valve ( also have it secured tightly since you have a large hose in there) to shut the hose bib on/ off. Or a hose bib - either way.

Thanks for the info regarding wireless battery operating dealy, interestingly cool!

WeekendWarior

New Member

Posts: 3

Location: Massachusetts

5

Sunday, September 18th 2011, 12:32am

Main/Line Vs. Adding a Zone

Thanks for your help and thoughts on my project. I've thought a lot about your idea of tapping into the main line and think it makes more sense than adding a zone. I have a few questions though…

  1. By main line do you mean the pipe from my sprinkler system backflow device that connects to the manifold? I tried to attach a picture of my set up but the file size is too large. You’ll notice I have 1’’ poly pipe connected to the vertical PVC that ties into the back flow preventer.
  2. If so, wouldn’t this mess up the ability to blow the system out in the fall? I usually have a sprinkler company do this annually but I know they connect their air compressor to the hose bib/silcock below the backflow preventer and manually open each valve/zone one at a time. If I teed into the main line that connects the PVC to the manifold, wouldn’t that run the air down the 100’’ poly pipe line as well as to the manifold? Maybe that wouldn’t matter as there would be enough pressure to blow out each zone while blowing out the 100’ line as well.
  3. Regarding my thoughts under #2 above, perhaps if I teed into the main line I would install some type of shut off valve at the tee and once it was blown out close off the line.


I appreciate any further insight you have would be great.

Mitchgo

Supreme Member

Posts: 502

Location: Seattle

6

Sunday, September 18th 2011, 2:22pm

#1 - yes- The main line is the pipe that is constantly on and charged that leads from your back flow assembly to your valves

#2 Just have the company blow the hose bib connection or ball valve - that will push out the water in this section of the main line- As well they should also hook into the island connections and blow the water out over here too.

#3 That wouldn't be necessary- I think you're over thinking it.. It's actually pretty simple

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