SPRINKLER TALK FORUM - You Got Questions, We've Got Answers

Common newbie errors are particles left in the pipes gumming up the works, and for glued valves, an excess of glue obstructing the passageway beneath the solenoid.

Quoted from "Mitchgo"

You could have messed up the common wire while replacing those valves


That's an old watts 709 back flow assembly

The gate valves could have broken or you didn't turn them on all the way?
turn them both down until it's taught- then all the way back up- lefty loosey righty tighty- should be at least 5 or 6 revolutions both ways.

You can open up the test ports ( Try all 4) to ensure you have water flowing through the device if you have a small stubby screw driver and a strong hand.

Big Thanks and follow-up....so flow is coming thru, and I have erratic performance. allow me to explain:
I went on vacation and came back. bingo zone 2 is working again. cycle to zone 3 but zone 2 won't turn off. zone 2 and 3 are going....i turn the nob on my newly installed PGP valve to the right to shut it off.... but the zone keeps going ( Does that mean I replaced the wrong zone? I guess I'm really not sure what valve belongs to what zone. wouldn't it be the closest one? how do I resolve that? ). I go to zone 4 and zone 3 closes and zone 4 opens...zone 2 remains open!! I switch to zone 1 and zone 1 and 2 are now on. I open the valve cover to zone 1 (again not really sure)....and i see a little pool of water covering most of the valve. turning everything off manually...what I thought was the zone 7 (yes seven) valve turns off zone 1 AND zone 2. can anyone point me to a resource to help?

Peter

You could have messed up the common wire while replacing those valves


That's an old watts 709 back flow assembly

The gate valves could have broken or you didn't turn them on all the way?
turn them both down until it's taught- then all the way back up- lefty loosey righty tighty- should be at least 5 or 6 revolutions both ways.

You can open up the test ports ( Try all 4) to ensure you have water flowing through the device if you have a small stubby screw driver and a strong hand.

You tried manual operation of the valves? You performed an electrical check of your wiring job? You got a rain sensor?

Quoted from "Wet_Boots"

Sight unseen, i would recommend Irritrol 2500F valves, Physically strong, and eternally repairable.

Ewing guy had Irritrol 2400, but steered me to Hunter PGV....said more likely to have replacement parts for that brand. I liked that so I purchased. Installation was quite a challenge... I've not much experience and had to cut it out. The new part was NOT threaded, so glued 1"pvc to each end and then "joins" to each. I cut just enough distance out of the pipes in the ground and keeping everything clean, put the other end of the joins in there, then put everything together and connected the wires using a 3M irrigation wire connector (which was expensive and nice).

Turned the water back on (see link below) and went through all 12 zones...nothing from ANY ZONE!!

SOOO...any ideas? where to start? See link below, what is this? I thought it was my main water supply (it's by the house, and I close these valves every winter)

http://gallery.me.com/peterkwanphotograp…/IrrigationMain

Sight unseen, i would recommend Irritrol 2500F valves, Physically strong, and eternally repairable.

Does the replacement have to be TORO? Do you have a recommendation/ pros / cons of options? Thanks soo much, I was probably going to waste some time and money just there! Pedro

I agree with Boot. Don't bother trying to repair that model valve. Whoever designed that solenoid was high on something. Whoever approved that solenoid for production was drunk. Another Toro genius at work.

Replace the valves - beat the rush - they are doomed

My front yard has 3 zones (well actually more than that, but these are sequential on the controller in the garage (zone1, zone2 , zone3), and these are the main watering ones for the lawn. This morning (on water restriction so it was my chance!) zone1 didn't turn on, i went out and played with the heads, no water at all. Switch to Z2, no water...switch Z3, no water. Now Z4 is in backyard and it came up fine (well, one of the Toro popup heads was stuck UP, so I just pushed it down with my foot. All other Zones (there is like a million) were working fine. Turned it off. Back on, skipping Z1...Z2 worked!... watered for a little bit. Z3 turned on but Z2 didn't turn off. watered for a bit. Turned it off, back on starting with Z1...it worked! but alas, Z2 was also running (therefore, less water coming out of Z1. I've noticed this big time...Z2 must never go off, bc the grass is like 8" tall around Z2 heads, well watered and green, while Z1 and Z3 grass is brittle and brown with patches of green around the heads (but only 3" tall). I lifted the valve cover, then I turned it clockwise. Turned off the water, took a shower and drank a beer. Turned it back on and Z1 is working fine.

Read a bit, and here I am....you guys seem to be helpful and smart! So, here is my valve, see link. I've not idea what to do next. Replace? Change it to rainbird? (I live in texas. My local irrigation has been selling me PGP pup ups whenever I need one (so far about 6 toro popups replaced, guess where...Z1 & Z2 !!!))

http://photopete.smugmug.com/photos/i-qzXD3JJ/0/L/i-qzXD3JJ-L.png