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Jeff,Hi,
Seems well thought out, but I think you need an adapter to attach the mainline to the manifold, and an endcap. Rough calculations put the prices you list in your post at about $36. Adding the additional parts brings it to $44. I build 1 inch PVC manifolds for about $7 in parts.
You didn't mention why replacement is necessary, but another solution may work.
I rarely replace a valvebody, usually from freeze damage. I have had to replace gaskets, solenoids,and bonnets before. I usually unscrew the top of the offending valve, and replace the whole top. No pipe problems, and a lot less time ( and less money than replacing the whole manifold)
I build my manifolds with male adapters on each side of the fFPT valves. I leave enough room between the valves, do I can turn the valve if I need to re[place it. To keep 3 valves in one box, I place them close enough to be able to be screwed on and off, withthe top (Bonnet and solenoid)removed . Then I place the bonnet back on.
I had a customer with a 3 valve setup at the absolute low point of his yard. Replaced the valves twice, so used slip joints on the down valve side, which made unscrewing the cracked valve body much easier. No cutting and glueing. Finally convinced him to move the valves but a drain in its place.
Moral, fix it right, maintain it, and no more repair is necessary. So if your new manifold will do that for you, Go For It; Otherwise hopefully my suggestions wil accomplish that for you.
Hope that helps, let us know how it goes.
Jeff
My only concerns with using this approach are the potential for these fittings/unions leaking and that if I do have to replace a valve that the fittings/unions will be easy to realign and tighten. I guess we'll see...